A small Sicilian farmer with 40 cows wins silver at the World Cheese Awards

The world's best cheese for 2024, according to the World Cheese Awards, is a sheep's milk cheese from Portugal: Queijo de Ovelha Amanteigado. However, Italian cheeses also shone at the competition held in Viseu, Portugal, racking up an impressive "Olympic" medal haul. The Parmigiano Reggiano team won 118 awards, including a record-breaking five Super Gold medals for a single cheese. The CheeseItaly team, representing Italy's National Cheese Selection, also performed remarkably well with entries from regions like Lombardy, Trentino-Alto Adige, Emilia-Romagna, Puglia, and Sicily.

Among these, a small farm in Ragusa province, Sicily, stood out. We spoke with its young owner to learn more about their award-winning cheese and their family-run operation.

Silver Medal for a Sicilian Cheese

The Cosacavaddu Ibleo Stagionato won a Silver Medal as a "free player" within the Italian National Cheese Selection, CheeseItaly. This handmade stretched-curd cheese boasts unique characteristics. "It’s crafted entirely by hand, which prioritises quality over quantity," explains Alessandro Criscione, a fifth-generation farmer and cheesemaker who has put his heart and soul into this cheese.

Locally, the cheese is well-known, partly thanks to its inclusion on the menus of renowned restaurants, including Ciccio Sultano’s two-Michelin-starred Duomo in Ragusa Ibla. Sultano has been mapping Sicilian ingredients for two decades, preserving and showcasing local flavours, including Alessandro's Cosacavaddu.

"But I wanted to go further," says Alessandro. "I decided to enter it into a competition, aiming for the most prestigious one: the World Cheese Awards, the global championship for cheese." Initially met with scepticism, even by CheeseItaly president Gabriele Arlotti, Alessandro’s cheese eventually won him over after a taste test, earning its spot on the national team.

photo Melissa Carnemolla

What Makes Cosacavaddu Ibleo Unique

"The hands of the cheesemaker make all the difference," says Alessandro, reflecting on the legacy passed down from his great-grandfather, who founded the family farm in 1928. While rooted in tradition, the farm has embraced technological innovation to ensure the highest standards of animal welfare and quality.

The farm's 40 milking cows wear microchip collars that monitor various metrics in real-time—milk quality, mammary health, physical activity, heat cycles, and digestion—all accessible via Alessandro’s phone. This precision reduces antibiotic use and eliminates the need for hormonal treatments like prostaglandins.

The farm’s location, just 5 km from the sea, adds a unique dimension to the cheese. “The sea breeze, rich in iodine, flavours the pasture, enriching the milk and, consequently, the cheese,” Alessandro explains. The cows graze freely on a diverse array of over 100 wild herbs, including calendula, wild celery, and mustard. During rainfall, the cows eagerly feast on the lush pasture, further enhancing the milk’s complexity.

The cows, primarily Brown Swiss with some Friesians, also enjoy supplemental hay and grain while avoiding silage, additives, and preservatives. "They can snack 10–12 times a day if they want," Alessandro adds. The farm adheres to the CReNBA protocol, which certifies high animal welfare standards. "Our cows live like queens—they roam freely, get massages from automatic brushes, and rest in a clean environment."

Alessandro's dedication to his cows is unwavering. "Whether it’s Christmas Eve or the middle of August, if there’s a complicated birth, I’m there," he says.

Perfect Pairings and Stages of Maturation

When it comes to pairing, Alessandro recalls showcasing his Cosacavaddu at the G7 Agriculture Ministers’ Meeting in Ortigia. Guests paired it with a variety of local products: a stunning black bee honey, a Marsala balsamic vinegar, orange marmalade, and even truffle cream—all of which beautifully complemented the cheese.

The Cosacavaddu Ibleo is available in three stages of maturation:

• A semi-aged version (4–9 months), ideal for grilling.
• A 24-month aged version, which won the Silver Medal at the World Cheese Awards.
• An ultra-aged version (60 months), produced in limited batches.

The latter has personal significance for Alessandro. "When my wife was giving birth, I was finishing the day’s cheese batch. Now I have wheels of Cosacavaddu born on the same day as my son. Those are untouchable—more precious than any medal."