It takes time to get to Dolada. There are a number of hairpin bends and in winter the conditions (sometimes) invite you to stay at home. But the journey is always worthwhile, both because the position allows you to admire all the surrounding beauty and because of the uniqueness of the food on offer. Dolada has excelled for decades now: furnishings, mise en place and glassware create a sophisticated atmosphere. There's great respect for the territory, but without being self-referential or reactionary. Two menus ("grande" and "Classici") allow diners to discover the very personal vision of Riccardo De Prà, who has followed in the footsteps of his father Enzo (one of Venetian cuisine's original masters) and never stops evolving: pigeon and stream trout, snails and penduline, strips of dried mutton, delicious desserts. A wide-ranging wine list and great service, overseen by Rossana (Riccardo's mother). And if you stay overnight in one of their seven rooms, you can enjoy breakfast the following morning.