Considering what's taken place since March 2020, in Venice in particular, we must congratulate the Alajmo family (not only them, obviously, many colleagues also deserve a round of applause) for not having given an inch in terms of quality in one of Italy's few, truly iconic restaurants. Hundreds of seats, ordinarily occupied by foreign tourists, were left unoccupied but this Venetian juggernaut kept the ship afloat by betting on their historic team. Chefs Silvio Giavedoni and Sergio Preziosa interpret Max Alajmo's vision in three or four acts, table d'hôte (menus available at 175 or 215), notwithstanding the possibility to choose à la carte, and create your own menu. Theirs are sophisticated dishes, often supremely delectable, where the lagoon's flavors are brought out the utmost, Italian tradition is represented and pure creativity is given free rein. In such an imaginative dining room, every time you discover some new detail you enjoy the top-notch service (orchestrated by Giovanni Alajmo and Stefano Munari, with sommelier Giacomo Lorato offering selections from a first-rate cellar) even more. Much to the relief of Italians, as well as gourmet food lovers from afar, the icon is safe.