Increasingly green and increasingly centered on experimentation, Alberto Morello's Gigi Pipa continues to grow, from cultivation of the vegetable garden (drawing on collaborations) to the production of baked goods (supported by the opening of the Bottega del Pane bakery and bistro). The goals are to reduce waste, highlight harmony with nature, educate the guest on seasonal ingredients, and guarantee good, all-round service. As their balanced and complete menu makes clear, they've hit their stride, offering everything from classic pizzas to different types of Margheritas, contemporary pizzas and personal interpretations (available as part of a tasting menu). As for the doughs, Alberto has never been one to compromise, drawing on stone-ground flours, long leavening that brings out the aromas and qualities of the sourdough starter and grains, and baking that borders on perfection. The pizzeria itself is spacious and well organized, making for a pleasant atmosphere that's apt for tasting. New customers have to try the house specialty, the Dall'orto, an absolute revelation in its latest version (fiordilatte mozzarella, Swiss chard, parsnip, cherries, cabbage and courgette cream). Everyone else has plenty to explore, or can trust in the advice of the wait staff. Craft beers and organic wines to wash it all down.
The best pizzerias are marked with 1,2,3 'spicchi' according to their quality grades.