Where to eat in the Liguria hinterland, the best restaurants

Nov 5 2023, 12:03
Liguria does not only mean the crowded riviera, nor the mundane aspect of places like Portofino and Santa Margherita, but there are many inland locations, often just a few kilometres from the sea, to get to know and visit for their natural scenery, the beauty of the ancient villages, the wealth of typical products and wines 

Autumn is a perfect time to explore the Liguria hinterland, both east and west, dotted with villages perched on hills and valleys that stretch as far as Piemonte, a splendid area rich in history and traditions, including at the table. Here are 13 addresses, including a Tre Gamberi-rated venue in the Ristoranti d’Italia 2024 giode.

The best restaurants where to eat in the Liguria hinterland

 

Where to eat in Campo Ligure (GE)

Caccia C’à Bugge

Trattoria. Sustainable, non-wasteful and traditional Ligurian-Piedmontese cuisine is what awaits you at this popular address in the Stura Valley, whose name literally means 'butta che bolle' (referring to pasta water). Among the workhorses are the vitello tonnato, homemade ravioli and rabbit. Intimate ambience, with a few seats (reservations are necessary), well-orchestrated wine list, with several rarities from beyond the Alps. Theme evenings and tastings are often organised throughout the year.

Caccia C’à Bugge – via Trieste, 32 – 010 920999-371 3840351 – pagina Facebook

 

Where to eat in Masone (GE)

Da Pippi

Trattoria. Cosy address with a century of activity behind it and family management that has been going on for generations. The ambience is beautiful, with exposed wooden beams, terracotta floors, tasteful objects, Berkel slicer and scales in view. As for the culinary proposal, fresh handmade pastas, game, mushrooms, truffles, and cheeses are just some of the ingredients that make for tasty and satisfying dishes. Leave some room for desserts, starting with tiramisu. Well-stocked cellar, including a nice selection of grappa.

Da Pippi – via Roma, 94 – 010 9269126 – Instagram @dapippiristorante

 

Where to eat in Ne (GE)

La Brinca

Trattoria. Three Prawns in the Guida Ristoranti d'Italia 2024, is a solid outpost of typical Ligurian and Val Graveglia cuisine, in the hands of the Circella family for more than 35 years. It is difficult to give suggestions on what to choose, everything is exquisite, but the 'brandacujun' (salt cod), 'testaieu' with mortar pesto, herb ravioli 'cu tuccu', minestrone alla genovese, lettuces in broth, stuffed rabbit, and baked veal tip are 'must' dishes. There are about a thousand references on the wine list, hundreds of spirits, and there is also an oil list.

La Brinca – via Campo di Ne, 58 – 0185 337480 – labrinca.it

Where to eat in Badalucco (IM)

Cian de Bià

Trattoria. You park your car and walk into the historic centre of this village in the Argentina Valley. Inside a characteristic stone house, here is a restaurant that is much loved and famous for its good food, based above all on ingredients from the family farm (evo oil above all) and traditional recipes.  According to seasonality and the market, a tasting menu is prepared that includes various starters, a couple of first courses, main courses and dessert, all accompanied by a good choice of wines. Booking essential.

Cian de Bià – via S. Pellico, 14 – 320 6622079

Where to eat in Dolceacqua (IM)

Casa e Bottega

Ristorante. An unconventional address, starting with the original setting and furnishings, which combine personality and good taste. The culinary proposal, based on ingredients of undisputed quality (Triora bread and evo oil included), entertains and satisfies. Examples include: cod in oil, sweet and sour onion and organic polenta; homemade gnocchi with pesto; rabbit with Rossese wine and baked potatoes; wrong 'tacunà' (shortcrust pastry cake and apricot jam). For lunch, there are three tasting menus. Wines to match.
Casa e Bottega – piazza G. Garibaldi, 2 – 0184 205038-320 3339444

Where to eat in Pigna (IM) 

Terme

Trattoria. Run by the Lanteri family since 1968, it is a pleasant establishment with rooms and outdoor seating area. The cuisine is genuine, homemade and based on local products, with special mention for the famous beans (the goat stew accompanied by the aforementioned legumes is truly a dish for kings). This season you can find a tasting trail entirely dedicated to mushrooms, from fried ones to those that season fresh pasta. The selection of wines is well cared for, with due attention paid to local wineries.

Terme – località Madonna Assunta – 0184 241046 – ristoranteterme.com

Where to eat in Altare (SV)

Quintilio

Ristorante. Dating back to 1869, this is a historic restaurant that for five generations has been offering excellent local dishes with a touch of the neighbouring Piedmont region. Everything stems from a serious search for the best ingredients, which are used daily to compose the dishes on the menu. Agnolotti, fettuccine, maltagliati, and tagliolini are all homemade, as are the exquisite bread and focaccia with mother yeast. Hundreds of bottles rest in the beautiful cellar, the fruit of many tastings and passion, which can also be purchased. Rooms available.

Quintilio – via A. Gramsci, 23 – 019 58000 – ristorantequintilio.it

Where to eat in Calizzano (SV)

Msetutta

Trattoria. Calizzano is a village between Piedmont and Liguria famous mainly for its chestnuts. In the narrow streets of the historic centre, dotted with craft workshops, is this cosy osteria run by Eugenio Nari (in the dining room) and Maria Grazia Ravera (at the cooker). The dishes are of undisputed quality, even original, strictly local, and offered in a rich and articulated set menu. To drink wines from the area, with some excursions in the region and Piedmont, as well as a pleasant bulk. Reservations required.

Msetutta – via G. Garibaldi, 7 – 339 3199648 – pagina Facebook

Where to eat in Castelbianco (SV)

Da Gin

Ristorante. An old inn with comfortable rooms and a lush garden has been run by the Fenocchio family for years. The cuisine is based above all on vegetables from their own garden and km0 ingredients processed with wisdom and a touch of fantasy, as in the case of rabbit with almond cream. In autumn, mushrooms, chestnuts and game triumph. There is no lack of options for vegetarians and those with intolerance problems. A small but well-stocked wine cellar to choose from on sight or be accompanied by the host's suggestions.

Da Gin – località Colletta Sottana via Pennavaire, 79 – 0182 77001 – dagin.it

Where to eat in Millesimo (SV)

Pantarei Cucina

Trattoria. Lovely little place in the heart of the historic centre, with tables even under the arcades. The cuisine is rigorous in its execution of Ligurian classics, very careful in using local products and precise in cooking. In the right season the truffle is the star, both white and black, combined with eggs, tagliolini and velvety soups (the Jerusalem artichoke one is exquisite). Some fish alternatives are also on the menu. Among the desserts, don't miss the panna cotta with chestnuts and chocolate. The wine list is small, but enhanced by many suggestions by the glass
Pantarei Cucina – piazza Italia, 52 – 019 565968 – pagina Facebook

Where to eat in Carrodano (SP)

Antica Locanda Luigina

Trattoria. Seventy years of activity behind it, with the same family management, for this inn with rooms in the heart of the Val di Vara, the right place to relax and enjoy cuisine that draws from the vast pool of products from this happy corner of the territory. In addition to the tasting menus (from vegan to mushroom-based) there is an inviting seasonal menu, from which to sample porcini gnocchi with red potatoes and borage, ravioli with meat sauce, stewed rabbit, and wild boar casserole. Local wines.

 Antica Locanda Luigina – frazione Mattarana via Aurelia, 182 – 0187 893683-348 7628240 – anticalocandaluigina.com

Where to eat in Ortonovo (SP)

Da Fiorella

Trattoria. It would be worth coming here if only for the splendid view that embraces the entire gulf, from La Spezia to the islands of the Tuscan archipelago. And not going in to taste the well-made dishes on offer here would be a real shame. The menu is divided between specialities of Tuscan and Ligurian origin, a reminder that we are in borderland here. Panigacci, ravioli with meat sauce, tortellini in chicken broth, polenta and stockfish, lamb chops with port, chestnut and black truffle semifreddo. House wine and interesting labels to round it all off.

Da Fiorella – frazione Nicola via per Nicola, 46 – 0187 66857 – pagina Facebook

Where to eat in Varese Ligure (SP)

Amici

Ristorante. A historic landmark - with parking, garden, rooms and refreshments - dating back to 1760 and since then under the aegis of the Marcone family. Here the attention to the guest is perceived from the first approach and even more so at the table. The quality of the ingredients, most of which are organic, is combined with the textbook execution of typical recipes, and the dishes that are tasted remain etched in the memory for a long time, such as ravioli with 'u tuccu', 'croxetti', 'cima alla genovese' and 'tumaxelle'. Local and regional wines to match.
Amici – via M. Caranza, 33 – 0187 842139 – albergoamici.it

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