The local gastronomic tradition, characteristic of Upper Valtellina, revolves around robust wines, game, polenta, cured meats, artisan cheeses, succulent meats, but also boasts unexpected gourmet restaurants. Here are the top 14 addresses chosen by Gambero Rosso.
Where to eat in Bormio
La Bajona
Restaurant. Right in the heart of the town, at the foot of the historic Bajona tower, is a welcoming haven of traditional cuisine that garners praise from a wide range of clientele. The menu features local cured meats (especially bresaola and slinzega), cheeses, venison sliders, pizzoccheri (buckwheat pasta), chestnut flour tagliatelle with porcini mushrooms and pumpkin, slow-cooked pork belly, and Sichuan pepper venison steak. The wine selection is impressive.
La Bajona – piazza Cavour, 15 – 327 9247667 – bajona.it
Cristall Bar Mountain Bistrot
Bistrot. Right across from the cable car, a pleasant and well-managed spot with a nicely decorated outdoor space, ideal for a snack but also for a complete meal featuring simple yet well-executed dishes. On the menu, there are assorted cured meats, pizzoccheri (buckwheat pasta), sciatt (buckwheat fritters with cheese), but also something more unusual, such as gyoza, ramen or noodles, mountain pine risotto with stream trout ragout, burgers with artisanal buns, and homemade fries. Well-selected wines are available for pairing.
Cristall Bar Mountain Bistrot – via Funivia, 35 – 0342 904575
Al Filò
Restaurant. Housed in an ancient barn with 17th-century stone walls, a cosy and characteristic venue that has been thriving for many years. People come here to experience a cuisine that interprets the local area and the typical Valtellina recipes while allowing for some creative flair. The drinks are excellent.
Al Filò – via Dante Alighieri, 6 – 0342 901732 – ristorantealfilo.it
Gavioli
Restaurant. Elegant spaces, well-furnished and tastefully illuminated, are home of one of the best culinary experiences in town. The dishes, besides being balanced and harmonious in flavours, are impeccably presented. Meals open with goose foie gras escalope with fried mushrooms, polenta, and “scimudin,” then tagliatelle with roe, venison ragout, chanterelles, and raspberry powder, and wild boar fillet with creamed spinach. There are also some seafood options available. Homemade bread and desserts are on point. The wine list is a delightful surprise, with approximately 500 selections from the region, the rest of Italy, and beyond.
Gavioli – via Alberti, 3 – 0342 901812 – ristorantegavioli.com
La Rasiga
Restaurant. Housed in a former sawmill (which is “rasiga” in the local dialect) with warm and inviting spaces, the Colturi family has passionately managed this establishment for years. It stands as a reliable reference for typical cuisine, offering flavourful and generous dishes. Among its specialities, apart from cured meats and cheeses, are pizzoccheri (buckwheat pasta) and sciatt (buckwheat fritters with cheese), venison stew with polenta, and pork ribs. The cellar boasts craft beers and wines from the Valtellina region.
La Rasiga – via G. Marconi, 6 – 0342 901541 – ristorantelarasiga.com
Umami Bistrot
Pizzeria. Pizza is a serious business here, starting with doughs made to perfection by chef Antonio Borruso, and toppings prepared with highly chosen ingredients. One must try the Umami, with fiordilatte cheese, gorgonzola from goat’s milk, carne salada, chanterelles and raspberries. The desserts, made by Bianca, Antonio's sister, are not to be missed.
Umami Bistrot – via Stelvio, 23 – 0342 911734 – umamibistrot.it
Vecchia Combo
Trattoria. More than half a century of honourable activity behind, for this sign facing the ski slopes, very popular among tourists and locals. Simple and neat interiors, outdoor seating, tasty and genuine dishes. Local wines wash it all down.
Vecchia Combo – p.zza Santuario, 4 – 0342 901568 – Facebook
Where to eat in Livigno
1816
Brewery. It’s Europe's “highest” brewery (1,816 metres above the sea level) and produces quality craft beers to go with cheese, sausages, pork ribs, burgers, spit-roasted cockerels... and finally, the birramisù. Rustic ambience, outdoor tables.
1816 – via Pontiglia, 37 – 0342 996332 – 1816.it
Calcheira
Trattoria. A few minutes from the centre, a typical mountain building with an all-wood interior, from the walls to the floors and furnishings. Here you can enjoy genuine, well-executed traditional cuisine, with dishes such as tagliolini with venison ragout, pizzoccheri, roast pork shank, and sausage with polenta. Delicious finish with apple fritters or a slice of homemade tart. In the cellar, wines mostly from the area.
Calcheira – via Fedaira, 61/A – 0342 970503 – calcheira.it
Fresco Bistrot & Pizza all’Hotel Mont Chalet Nevada
Bistrot. A modern, intriguing, and fun cuisine that leverages consistently fresh and carefully selected ingredients. And then there's the long-leavened pizza dough with high-quality toppings, an interesting wine list, a pleasant atmosphere, and options suitable for coeliacs. These are the winning features of Fresco, attached to the Hotel Nevada but with its own identity, a valuable address.
Fresco Bistrot & Pizza all’Hotel Mont Chalet Nevada – via Saroch, 35 – 0342 996551 – hotelnevadalivigno.it/fresco-bistrot-ristorante
Kosmo Taste The Mountain
Restaurant. Mountain flavours and ingredients are transformed into an anti-waste cuisine where what can't be put on the plate is “recycled” into appetizers and snacks. An original and adaptable concept in this modern, bright establishment, featuring multiple rooms and terraces, a gourmet extension of the Mottolino ski facilities, with consultancy from Chef Norbert Niederkofler. For lunch, an easy menu; for dinner, à la carte fine dining and - in the higher floors, for 10 guests - an 8-course tasting menu. Mountain wines and many small producers, including biodynamic options.
Kosmo Taste The Mountain – via Bondi, 473 – 346 1152048 – kosmotastethemountain.com
al Peršéf all’Hotel Sporting
Restaurant. Only 7 tables, seating 20 guests, requiring reservations well in advance, located in a wing of the Hotel Sporting. Here, one can experience an exceptional culinary journey thanks to the talent of the young chef Attilio Galli, who enjoys experimenting while always keeping his origins and roots in mind. There are three tasting menus that change quite frequently. The cellar, with many intriguing labels, especially from lesser-known small wineries, allows for perfect pairings.
al Peršéf all’Hotel Sporting – via Saroch, 1272 – 0342 996665 – ristorantealperseflivigno.com
La Piöda all'Hotel Astra
Restaurant. Born from a renovated ancient farmhouse, the establishment features the classic rustic setting of wood and stone, along with a spacious outdoor area. The cuisine draws from tradition, made more intriguing with modern touches. The wine cellar is rich and passionately curated.
La Piöda all'Hotel Astra – via Saroch, 604 – 0342 997610 - lapioda.com
La Pòsa all’Hotel Flora
Restaurant. Adjacent to a comfortable 4-star hotel, it's a refined dining establishment considered one of the city's finest. At the helm is Luca Galli, young and talented chef who provides a highly satisfying culinary experience. On the menu, alongside traditional dishes, are offerings such as juniper-scented venison roast beef, smoked spaghetti with beetroot purée, goat yoghurt, and lemon butter; beef consommé with pancake noodles, slow-cooked beef cubes, and soft-boiled egg. The drink selection is excellent.
La Pòsa all’Hotel Flora – via Taglieda, 58 – 0342 1980031 – laposalivigno.it
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