For those who see the glass as half full, Valle d'Aosta is a dynamic region that allows its most prestigious labels to attack markets that seemed unreachable until recently. The pessimist, on the other hand, always sees the glass as half empty, thinking that successful Valdostan companies abroad are few, and that success only smiles upon the more organized and larger realities. Upon deeper reflection, one realizes that the numbers of regional wine inevitably condemn it to remain within its own borders and wait for foreigners at home. Both perspectives have their valid reasons, although ultimately, the producer's mentality makes the difference: there are those who dare and those who settle.
This is ultimately the exact image of the viticultural Valle d'Aosta: the potential offered by the mountain climate and the diversity of its soils is undeniable, but it is more reassuring not to take risks and to wait quietly. The problem is that by doing so, there is no growth, and instead of attacking the market, you end up being subjected to it. As in many other regions of our country, too many winemakers dissipate their energies, cultivating many grape varieties for purely commercial reasons, without fully understanding the vocation of the place. The market sets the price of these wines, and almost always, the genius loci remains hidden. And this is the real shame; except for a few cases where a strong bond has been formed between grape variety and territory, often more for geographical reasons—see the case of Nebbiolo in Donnas in Bassa Valle, on the border with Piedmont—than for elective affinities, the market influences choices
Tre Bicchieri 2024: The Best Chardonnays from Valle d'Aosta
The true regret is that the great wines of Valle, fortunately numerous, are more the work of individual winemakers than the result of a broad general awareness. Among the wines awarded in the 2024 Vini d'Italia guide by Gambero Rosso, we focus on the two Chardonnays that received the Tre Bicchieri. One is the Chardonnay Cuvée Bois 2021 - Les Crêtes, with a brilliant color, a nose highlighted by acacia and honey notes harmonized by the elegant olfactory contribution of the barrique. In the mouth, it is rich with a long finish. The other is the Chardonnay Mains et Coeur 2021 - Maison Anselmet, surprising, with a harmonious spicy note, roasted coffee, and acacia flowers, a powerful but fresh palate that extends into a characterful finish."
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