The unexpected Trattoria just a stone’s throw from the Highway: a Temple of Meat (and Chianina Cattle)

by Rosario Del Piero

Once upon a time, there were those guides you kept in your car. I remember them being yellow—maybe I’m imagining it—but they were like a bible for those who traveled a lot by car. Among the precious pages were the best restaurants just minutes from each exit, which often turned out to be simply the least bad option—some edible dish in the middle of nowhere or from shabby eateries that almost made it impossible to continue driving after the meal.

Between Chianina Cattle and Aglione

In your imagination, this place towers like a giant on the shoulders of the Fierli family. It’s a spot that’s both a farm with stunning Chianina cattle, a shop showcasing the outstanding meat from Tuscan cows framed by a selection of local products (Aglione! You must try the Aglione!), and an osteria you’ll never want to leave. This little corner of paradise for marrow and T-bone steak lovers is just two roundabouts away from the Bettolle exit, less than two hours from Rome, and not even an hour from Florence. You can imagine the avalanche of tourists going up and down the A1, unaware that they’re passing by a gem that, as the experts say, is “worth the stop.”

Agri-Ristoro just a stone’s throw from the Highway

If you want to stock up on steaks or Cinta Senese sausages, jars of tripe, meat sauces, honey, or pecorino cheese aged in walnut leaves, it’ll cost you only a ridiculously short detour from your journey. But if you have a couple of hours to invest in yourself, after shopping, head up to the first floor of the old farmhouse where Fierli has set up his hub of delicacies. The “agri-ristoro,” as they like to call it, is a festival of Chianina and Cinta Senese in all their forms, from the unmissable Fiorentina steak to the unexpected Tuscan carne salada, including tartare and marrow. If you’re a connoisseur of indulgence, know that the lampredotto they serve here is finger-licking good. If you think you need some time to recover before getting back behind the wheel, contact them in advance—a tour of the nearby farm will get you back on track.

Fierli – Foiano della Chiana (AR) - via del Duca, 159 – 334 763 6480 – chianinaitaly.it