Andrea Picchioni's deeply agricultural Buttafuoco in Oltrepò Pavese: tasting 8 Vintages

“The philosophy of Lino Maga is mine too: the vineyard is 70% of the wine. And it must be suited for the purpose, but nowadays vines are planted everywhere.” This phrase encapsulates Andrea Picchioni’s approach to his work in Oltrepò, at Canneto Pavese. He’s organic but doesn’t label it because it’s now just marketing; he makes “natural wine” but doesn’t declare it; he once crafted remarkable sparkling wines but stopped when they became overly trendy. His powerful (yet elegant) Buttafuoco wines are enjoyed cold at 12 degrees in summer, aiming for finesse and satisfaction.

The vertical tasting of Riva Bianca: 8 Vintages

“Here is where Buttafuoco was born,” Andrea smiles, “on these vineyards where slopes reach 45%. These are the vineyards suited for wine, not the plains!” His hallmark Buttafuoco, Riva Bianca, is represented here with vintages ranging from 1998 to 2020.

91
Buttafuoco Riva Bianca 2020
Andrea Picchioni
Canneto Pavese (PV)
The latest vintage on the market offers clear balsamic notes: eucalyptus, fern, mint, and undergrowth. It’s hard not to recognise Picchioni’s 2020 Riva Bianca, a genuine expression of the Solinga cru in Oltrepò. Still tight, it has the energy for a long journey ahead, closing with dark liquorice tones.

92
Buttafuoco Riva Bianca 2016
Andrea Picchioni
Canneto Pavese (PV)
This red wine presents very ripe on the nose, with notes of cherry in spirit and cocoa. On the palate, it is highly concentrated, enriched by dried fruit accents, particularly prunes. The tannins are abundant, yet the wine remains pleasing with a finish that is long but somewhat rough, echoing the winemaker’s rugged style.

88
Buttafuoco Riva Bianca 2015
Andrea Picchioni
Canneto Pavese (PV)
The nose reveals hints of tar, along with spices, coffee, and tobacco. Austere, the palate showcases graphite and liquorice. While it lacks a touch of lightness, the finish is slightly rough, with pronounced tannins and a distinct “raspiness” that seems to be a hallmark. Likely needs more time to reach its peak.

93
Buttafuoco Riva Bianca 2008
Andrea Picchioni
Canneto Pavese (PV)
This vintage shifts gears. The wine immediately distinguishes itself from the previous examples: pleasant spices like cardamom, cinnamon, and cloves emerge. These sensations carry through to the palate, joined by toasted notes and bitter almond. The finish is ample and rich, closing with an enjoyable bitter-sweetness and lingering balsamic and spicy hints.

93
Buttafuoco Riva Bianca 2004
Andrea Picchioni
Canneto Pavese (PV)
A delightful surprise from this vintage of Riva Bianca. It reveals itself as balanced and mature from the start, with alcohol levels in check. The palate confirms these qualities: it’s rich and concentrated, yet elegant with balsamic notes, humus, and orange zest. Exceptionally long in the finish, this is a superb wine with remarkable energy.

91
Buttafuoco Riva Bianca 2003
Andrea Picchioni
Canneto Pavese (PV)
A hot year with a reduced harvest of mostly healthy grapes. This Buttafuoco immediately shows integrity, with balsamic and enticing notes of myrtle, juniper, and Mediterranean scrub. On the palate, red pepper and rosemary enhance its balsamic nature and elegance. The finish reveals anise, toasted sensations, and coffee. The tannins are slightly sharp.

94
Buttafuoco Riva Bianca 1998
Andrea Picchioni
Canneto Pavese (PV)
Immediately displays excellent condition: the nose delivers orange zest aromas, hinting at a great wine from 15-year-old vines. The palate is solid, with nuances of white truffle and earth, confirming the aromatic profile. It continues with energy, opening into balsamic notes and wild mint, typical of the Solinga Valley where it originates. Long and pleasant in the finish—outstanding.