Sicily experiments with heirloom grapes. Oenologist Angelo Di Grazia: "They are the future, and I’ll explain why"

“Sicily has always been a land of conquest. Everyone who came here brought something along. In the world of wine, you can find everything; every grape variety is present. So why not bring forgotten native grape varieties back into the spotlight, those that were once used for blending?” These are the words of Angelo Di Grazia, a 41-year-old oenologist from Licodia Eubea, a small town in the far south of the province of Catania. “It’s almost an island, completely different from both Catania and Ragusa,” Angelo assures.

From research to action

“A few years ago, I discovered that IRVO, the Regional Institute for Vine and Olive, was conducting research on heirloom Sicilian grape varieties that are more resilient and better suited to our climate. That piqued my interest,” he recalls during a visit to his vineyard in the countryside of Licodia. The research is led by Giacomo Ansaldi, who combines his work as an oenologist at his Marsala-based winery with that of an “archaeologist” of heirloom vines. His career path culminated in the publication of the book Identità e Ricchezza del Vigneto Sicilia, a comprehensive treatise that, for the first time, highlights the immense biodiversity of Sicilian grape varieties.

“My connection with Ansaldi,” says Di Grazia, “came through Vincenzo Bambina, the oenologist for Tornatore, a winery in Castiglione di Sicilia, on Mount Etna.” Angelo, a protégé of Etnean oenologist Salvo Foti and himself a consultant for Tornatore, obtained a PDF copy of Ansaldi’s work and then moved on to practical action. He decided to plant three heirloom grape varieties in his small vineyard at the foot of Monte Altore near Licodia Eubea. “I chose recunu, cutrera, and rucignola—varieties that best align with my idea of winemaking. I love acidity and minerality. These three grapes immediately adapted to these mixed limestone and basalt soils.”

The Riofavara challenge

In 2019, at the same time, Massimo Padova, owner of the Riofavara winery in Ispica (Ragusa province but still within the Val di Noto wine region), was looking for a local oenologist for closer oversight. Angelo recounts: “He called me, and I went to meet him. We tasted his wines, and one of them was made from the same heirloom grapes I had planted. His previous oenologist didn’t like that wine, thinking it too acidic and unbalanced. But I loved it. What was seen as a flaw was actually its uniqueness. So, I told him: ‘I don’t know what others have said, but I wouldn’t use it for blending; I’d bottle it as it is. And if you’re not on board, I’ll buy the whole lot myself.’ In January, he called back and said: ‘Let’s take the risk. Let’s do it.’” Thus began their collaboration.

Massimo Padova, Riofavara, with his daughters

“It was a challenge,” Angelo continues. “Would those vines thrive in a territory where temperatures during harvest reach 48°C and where summer temperature fluctuations are modest? The answer was yes. The heirloom vines maintained a formidable vegetative-productive balance and boasted a high pH (2.90). The recunu (2.80–3.00 pH) is ideal for sparkling wine, with a beautiful framework, structure, and acidity. This wine, made from heirloom grapes, represents a turning point: it feels like a wine from Alto Adige. It’s a wine you wouldn’t expect so close to the sea. In particularly hot years, grillo becomes heavier and more alcoholic, but recunu retains elegance even in dry seasons.”

Trying to succeed

“That wine was incredibly acidic and sharp,” Di Grazia recalls. “But after bottling it in February and letting it sit until summer, it became excellent. Then came the naming process. Clementina, Massimo’s daughter, came up with the perfect idea: Nsajàr, a Sicilian dialect term meaning ‘to try in order to succeed.’ In Sicilian, saying nsaja questa camicia means ‘try this shirt on because it suits you.’ It was a perfect name. Today, Nsajàr has become the symbol of this winery. Thanks to this wine from heirloom grapes and with slightly earlier harvests due to climate change, we are modernising the Noto region. The approach has changed: even with reds, we now focus on acidity rather than alcohol,” Angelo asserts, satisfied with a collaboration that has lasted five years.

Minimal-intervention winemaking

The advantages of heirloom grape varieties extend to winemaking, requiring fewer treatments in the cellar. “The acidity of these grapes also acts as a preservative. We aim not to filter or clarify,” Angelo explains. Can this be considered natural wine? “Nowadays, ‘natural’ has become an overused term,” he clarifies. “Let’s say we prefer minimal-intervention winemaking — a philosophy of non-intervention unless necessary. Clarifying agents deplete structure, and filtration sterilises the wine. Thanks to heirloom grapes, I don’t need added sulphites, and I can maintain a delicate approach to winemaking.”

For this reason, recunu, cutrera, and rucignola—along with carricante from Etna—also form the base of Contatto Bianco, a wine from Angelo Di Grazia’s personal winery. Naturally, recunu, which remains slightly unripe, ensures acidity and reduces alcohol levels. Ansaldi has even experimented with sparkling recunu. “Rucignola offers balanced acidity and a slight overripeness that enriches the aromatic profile. Cutrera ripens very well and adds other aromatic notes. In my wine, I also include carricante, which I brought from Etna to temper the blend—a notable feat, as carricante is usually considered excessively acidic.”

Heirloom grapes and climate change

There’s another reason to invest in these grape varieties, which several producers are now doing: climate change. “They’re perfect for this purpose,” Angelo assures. “My first harvest in 2022 was plagued by drought, but these grapes had no issues. In 2023, downy mildew caused widespread damage, but the heirloom vines remained unaffected. 2024 wasn’t an easy year, but the harvest was exceptional.”

In a surprising twist, recunu, cutrera, and rucignola thrive in arid, sun-scorched regions traditionally suited for red wines (nero d’Avola and frappato). This discovery could not only help combat climate challenges but also align with market trends favouring white and sparkling wines.

Sicily is a wonderful land for whites

“Sicily is a wonderful land for whites,” Di Grazia affirms. “Think of Marsala made with insolia. My father urged me to plant nero d’Avola and frappato, but I said no—here in Licodia, we should grow whites. Some prominent producers from the Cerasuolo di Vittoria area (where our winery is located) tried to change my mind. Sure, we have exceptional warm reds in Sicily, like nero d’Avola, syrah, and cabernet. But whites surprise you; they have complexity and elegance and can be enjoyed year-round. It’s too hot here to produce a red wine where I can’t control the alcohol. A nero d’Avola with 14.5% alcohol? I won’t drink that anymore. Now we need to aim for 12.5%.”

The future of heirloom grapes

So, are heirloom grapes the varieties of the future? “Absolutely,” Angelo confirms. “You need to look to the past to shape the future. I started working in wineries at 17. In Sicily, there’s too much confusion, too many grape varieties from all over, and it creates chaos. In the Marsala area,” Angelo jokes, “you could go grape shopping.”

And instead? “Instead, we need to give a voice to what has remained in the shadows. We’ve undervalued our unique traits and pushed for internationalisation. Now we need to change. Let’s bottle heirloom grapes, even the reds. It’s a risky project, but it can appeal to young people. We need to step out of our comfort zone. Sicily is a land of whites.” And even better if they’re made from heirloom grapes.