The unexpected Pizzeria hidden inside an old bar in Rome

It used to be just another bar, certainly not a destination for gourmands or anyone with refined tastes. Located on the corner in front of the old Magazzini allo Statuto, now home to the Accademia di Costume e Moda. The unforgettable MAS — silent and still for decades—was a neighbourhood icon in Esquilino. Its walls exude a nostalgic melancholy, once a Sunday gathering spot for elderly Roman ladies and young hipsters on pilgrimages from Pigneto, searching for vintage T-shirts. Those creaking escalators cutting through departments for men, women, and children: "Here, you’ll find everything you’re looking for." What memories.

That bar witnessed the splendour of those iconic department stores and stayed quiet during their slow decline. Its patrons even saw the closure of MAS. Bar allo Statuto went through numerous management changes, one after another, while the nearby Piazza Vittorio park was renovated— despite lingering issues with local crime—and the bar remained unnoticed.

But in the last couple of years, a new energy has arrived at that corner with its uneven streets. A buzz of activity surrounds the tables outside, with people coming and going from breakfast through dinner. In the mornings, they order freshly squeezed orange juice; in the evenings, Spritz. And they eat pizza —excellent pizza— by the slice or round.

Cristian Floris, a Sardinian-born pizzaiolo, is behind this renewed vibrancy, along with his business partners. And thank goodness for it!

A snapshot of Rome

The pizza at Statuto is a great excuse to wander under the 19th-century porticoes of Esquilino. Prepared by Floris, who came to Rome in 2013, he honed his craft at one of the historic Roman pizza spots, I Fratelli in San Lorenzo. After a brief stint in Asti, he managed the Rinascente pizzeria run by Feudi San Gregorio for a few years, followed by various collaborations and opportunities that didn’t pan out.

In 2020, just before the arrival of Covid, Floris took the plunge with his business partners on what seemed like a doomed bet: reviving the anonymous bar by focusing on top-quality doughs. After two challenging years, patience and hard work paid off.

Sitting outdoors in that corner of Rome is a balm for the soul, especially for those who struggle daily with the city’s chaos. From that little spot, you get a snapshot of the Eternal City. Porticoes teeming with people, makeshift market stalls laden with racks of wrinkled clothes, red-and-white plastic tables and chairs, often dirty pavements, and the ever-present nocturnal florists—those mysterious vendors who never seem to close, leaving everyone wondering why. There’s the intermittent hum of scooters weaving endlessly through cobblestone obstacles, and a man in his fifties leans out of his car window to yell at the driver in front (you know the rest). In the distance, queues form outside Pasticceria Regoli.

The round pizza Esquilino was missing

But let’s talk about the pizza. Starting at 10 a.m., the first trays of steaming pizza by the slice emerge. The dough is good, the toppings are interesting, sometimes a bit excessive, but overall, the result is consistently enjoyable.

However, at BAS (Bar allo Statuto), the most intriguing product is the round pizza, served from 5 p.m. onwards every day. A hybrid between Neapolitan and Roman styles, it’s baked in an electric oven at 400°C for a couple of minutes. The result is a round pizza that’s well-hydrated yet crisp. The dough is light and pleasant.

The Ciau-Ciau pizza surprised us with its topping of ciauscolo, a cream of stracchino and pecorino, rocket, and lemon zest. Once you finish it, you’ll want another. The Fiore di Muggine features fior di latte, topped post-baking with courgette flowers, Andria stracciatella, bottarga, and black sesame seeds.

Then there are the classics: Margherita, Quattro Formaggi, and Diavola. The toppings often change, depending on the season and available ingredients. While there’s no pretence of gourmet aspirations, the quality work fills a long-standing void in the neighbourhood, save for a few historic establishments.

Bar allo Statuto is a place to go for the experience, to live a slice of Rome nestled in a corner, for a peaceful evening, and for all generations. In this little haven, older patrons drop by for coffee or freshly squeezed orange juice, while younger ones sip Spritz at incredibly low prices. And the pizza? That’s what keeps them all coming back.