Some years ago, Andrea Czarnocki Lucheschi, his wife Archduchess Isabella of Austria and the Duke d'Este revived an age-old vinegar cellar and applied a recipe dating back to Cristoforo di Messisburgo, toastmaster of the Dukes d'Este in the 16th century. The vinegar is made by acetification of raw red-grape must, then aged in kegs of decreasing size. There are two versions: the six-year Sopraffino degli Estensi and the Sopraffino degli Estensi Riserva, aged at least 12 years. There are also monovarietal vinegars and the delicate, spicy Vinagro condiments.