Renato Paltrinieri runs a tight ship at his dairy. The secret of production quality lies in his careful checks on milk sources, the artisanal processing at each stage, and bespoke ageing from 70 to 150 days, depending on the type of cheese and in rooms where hygiene reigns supreme. The flagship is a Gorgonzola in mild or piquant versions, layered with mascarpone and another with chilli. Then there is Paltoma, a Piano Rosa toma from whole cow's milk.