Eric Asimov has once again compiled his personal list of the year’s most memorable wines for the New York Times. This is not a list of prestigious names, iconic labels, or unforgettable vintages—although, as Asimov notes, “those often stay in memory and serve as reference points for beauty.” Instead, the common thread of this year’s selection is a focus on “younger and more accessible labels, not hard to find,” which exude charm.
Among the 12 wines featured, three hail from Italy, representing two regions. Tuscany makes a strong showing with the Chianti Classico Riserva 2019 from Val delle Corti and the Vin Santo del Chianti Classico 2015 from Fèlsina. Unexpectedly, the third Italian entry comes from Calabria: Giramondo from L’Acino, a winery in Cosenza run by Dino Briglio and Emilio Di Cianni.
Tuscan excellence
Tuscany continues to enjoy an excellent reputation on the international stage. American critics have frequently highlighted the region’s wines in their rankings, and Asimov has repeatedly praised the Chianti area’s outstanding quality, including Fèlsina’s Vin Santo del Chianti Classico ’15 among the sweet wines worth purchasing.
Calabrian renaissance
What stands out, however, is Calabria’s recent emergence as a wine-producing region to watch. In the Guida Vini d’Italia 2025, we noted how Calabria is carving out its space on the international stage, akin to other prominent southern Italian DOCs. This transformation has proven not to be a fleeting trend but a sustained trajectory of quality and consistency.
The first sign of this “awakening” came about a dozen years ago with the rise of the so-called Cirò Boys, a group of young producers committed to drawing attention to the historic Cirò wine through traditional winemaking methods and sustainable farming. While admirable and partially successful, their movement remained largely confined to the Cirò denomination.
What has unfolded over the past few years, however, is an entirely different story—a true revolution, and a green one at that—encompassing the entire region from north to south. In a short span of time, dozens of new wineries have emerged. These producers not only craft wine, often reviving traditional native grape varieties, but they also bring a clear commitment to quality.
Giramondo 2020 from L’Acino
All things considered, Calabria is undoubtedly enjoying a remarkable moment. “This beautiful mountainous region, which forms the toe of Italy’s boot, is not well known for its wines,” writes Asimov, “but this bottle was different.”
The wine is made from a selection of Malvasia di Candia grapes, with 24 hours of skin contact and 16 months of ageing in mulberry barrels.
“Dry, yet rich in aromas, as if it carried the scent of a field of flowers. On the palate, it was lively with a light, refreshing, and slightly bitter aftertaste,” Asimov describes.
This mention in the New York Times is no small feat, breaking the spell of obscurity that has long plagued Southern Italian wines—particularly those from Calabria—and highlighting the potential of this underappreciated Italian wine region.
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