Rosé of the Year for Gambero Rosso's Vini d'Italia 2024 guide
With the Rosato dell'anno (Rosé of the Year) we reaffirm a specific identity, far from the Provence effect that seems to afflict the entire category with increasingly drab colours even in the presence of anthocyanin-rich vines and arid climates. We have chosen a rosé wine from Abruzzo that treads a third way: it does not only play the fruit and acidic pleasantness card, but manages to unfurl a rich array of register nuances with grace and class. Its dual soul reflects the origin of the Montepulciano vineyards: two are on the slopes of the Maiella, at high altitude; the other is at a stone's throw from the Adriatic at Silvi Marina. The grapes ferment and mature in exhausted barriques, and then spend time in steel. The talent of a great craftsman like Giuliano Pettinella makes all the difference: this is the first time of the Tre Bicchieri and the highest recognition for a Cerasuolo d'Abruzzo that does not fear the weather and highlights the excellent interpretation of a hot and dry year like 2022. A pearl that reinforces the identity of Italian-style rosé wine.
ROSÉ OF THE YEAR
Score: 96/100
Cerasuolo d'Abruzzo Tauma 2022 - Pettinella
Giuliano Pettinella was a lawyer before deciding to change his life. He found a small vineyard on the slopes of Monte Morrone and a small parcel by the sea in Silvi. He cultivated a single grape, Montepulciano, which he transformed into two labels in small numbers. This year Giuliano really delighted us with an exciting version of Tauma, his Cerasuolo d'Abruzzo. A fine craftsmanship in the olfactory profile, genuine and identity-driven, reminding us that we are dealing with Montepulciano: graphite, pepper, red cherry, currant, an almost toasted hint followed a dynamic and rhythmic mouthfeel, juicy, fragrant, very drinkable yet nuanced and complex. What more could we want from the Rosé of the Year? Chapeau.