American Barbecue wins a Michelin star for the first time in history

Nov 12 2024, 16:45

The first edition of the Michelin Guide honours local BBQ, with the majority of stars awarded to this type of restaurant

Finally, it has happened: Texas now has its own Michelin Guide and a sprinkling of stars. More of a drizzle, really—a minor disturbance that’s hard to define. This is because the arrival of the Michelin Guide isn't solely about recognising the merit and maturity of the local dining scene (though Michelin notes this is a prerequisite) but is also tied to commercial agreements with the host country investing in culinary tourism. In the case of Texas’s four major metropolitan areas, the investment totals $270,000, divided into three annual payments. Essentially, the tourism office makes arrangements with Michelin, which sends inspectors to explore the region, evaluate restaurants, and potentially award stars to deserving establishments. Apparently, in the case of Texas, the answer was a resounding “Yes,” resulting in 15 red stars and 2 green stars.

The best Steakhouses

A promising start that, while perhaps not meeting American expectations, certainly raises questions for us. The Michelin Guide to Texas looks more like a ranking of the 50 best steakhouses with a few small nods to other cuisines: contemporary American, Mexican, Japanese, Spanish, French, and Mediterranean. One establishment is even categorised as creative cuisine. However, the bulk is classic southern-style barbecue. It’s reminiscent of the opening chapter of Cooked by Michael Pollan, yet it’s Michelin.

Michelin’s five criteria

Despite an absolute respect for any culinary style—as long as it’s executed with technical precision and high-quality ingredients—one can’t help but raise an eyebrow. For example, Michelin explains that “highlights include the all-Spanish wine list at BCN Taste & Tradition and the requirement to pre-order some of the finest brisket and beef ribs in the state at CorkScrew BBQ.” Really, is ordering basic ingredients in advance enough to earn a star? According to Michelin’s own website, five criteria are applied everywhere in awarding a star: the quality of ingredients, harmony of flavours, mastery of techniques, the chef’s personal expression in their cuisine, and importantly, consistency over time and across the entire menu. Something here doesn’t quite fit.