Amidst the hills of Prosecco, there is an inn without an innkeeper where customers serve themselves

by Lorenzo Santucci

A partially open door, indicating that anyone who wanted to enter was welcome. Three bottles of Cartizze with six glasses next to them. And a note: "Bottle value 10 euros, serve yourself and enjoy the tasting." Right beside it, a piggy bank to leave the money, without anyone checking whether the amount was exact or not. This is how the story of the "Osteria senz'Oste" (Inn without Innkeeper) began, partly for fun and partly by chance, certainly with a great deal of trust. Luck has little or nothing to do with it. It has been twenty years since Cesare De Stefani, a salami maker by family tradition, turned his farmhouse in the Prosecco hills of Conegliano and Valdobbiadene into an inn, not far from the village of Santo Stefano, overlooking the Cima Cartizze.

What to drink and eat at the Osteria senz'Oste

In this place where past and future mix, the stones and bricks that make up the farmhouse contrast with innovation. There are no waiters or staff to order from here. Visitors can purchase local wines (so much so that some labels are handwritten in dialect: "Il me preferio col fondo") and glasses from refrigerated vending machines, which are constantly stocked with drinks and food. Nothing cooked, but cheeses, cold cuts, hard-boiled eggs, pickles, and "pan de vin" to be eaten at the wooden tables overlooking the vineyards. All products are sourced from the surrounding area, some directly from Cesare's salami shop. Once you've chosen your menu, you pay at a self-service automatic cash register, it goes without saying.

Trust and word of mouth

Word of mouth has crossed national borders, bringing tourists from all over the world to the Osteria senz'Oste. Confirmation is found in the photos hanging from the ceiling and the notes they leave before leaving, extremely satisfied with the experience. All in total freedom – and therefore responsibility – to do whatever you want while respecting the place. More than a business, it's a pleasure activity. A simple, yet original, way to do good for those passing by, who can stop for a snack or a complete refreshment. All in front of the spectacle of the Valdobbiadene vineyards, sitting on wooden benches surrounded by greenery.

Initially, Cesare used to write the ideal cost of the bottles on them, but if someone had less money in their pocket, they could leave what they had. It was a rare matter of trust: with that amount, the customer was educated about the work behind that particular bottle, meeting their needs. However, there are rules to follow, and this practice is not allowed by law. The Osteria has therefore temporarily halted its activities, waiting to resolve some tax-related issues. Today, it displays prices and charges as indicated, without spontaneity. Nevertheless, the unforgettable experience has remained intact, that is assured.

Osteria senz'Oste - Str. delle Treziese, 4 - 31049 Valdobbiadene TV - Osteriasenzoste.it