"An overly dark coffee is like a burnt Fiorentina". Vincenzo Sansone from Naples rethinks the Tazzulella

by Titti Casiello

Originally, coffee was roasted dark, had a dense crema, and a strong flavour. Today, however, it is being reinterpreted to uncover all its aromatic nuances. Yet, Neapolitan coffee remains deeply rooted in its social significance—an essential ritual that brings “a certain serenity of spirit,” as the beloved Eduardo De Filippo once said. This same ritual helped the "Lady of the Morning," Matilde Serao, start her days with a double coffee to overcome doubts and uncertainties and find the energy to write her two daily articles.

Eduardo De Filippo in the televised theatre play 'Questi Fantasmi'.

Naples and the evolution of the Tazzulella

While the meaning of coffee in Naples has remained unchanged, the tazzulella has evolved over time, adapting with a spoonful of new cultures and flavours. Thus, instead of merely claiming to have “the best coffee in the world,” small, innovative shops like Caffè Sansone at 610 Corso Vittorio Emanuele now take centre stage. Thirty square metres, a few tables inside, a corner dedicated to selling house-roasted coffee, and behind the counter, the young Vincenzo Sansone.

Or take the story of Blue Turtle…
Trento. That single word is enough to remind Vincenzo where it all began. “My father worked on cruise ships, and at eighteen, I moved there from Naples with my mother.”

Coffee: the Trento-Trieste-Naples connection

Two seaside cities and a gust of wind tying them together through a shared love of fine wine and coffee. It was in Trento that Vincenzo first thought about working in hospitality—though he had yet to figure out how. In the meantime, he stumbled upon events and courses at the University of Coffee in Trieste.

“I always told myself that if I ever opened a bar, it would be a mix of what I experienced there and what I had lived in Naples.” So, armed with a hefty sack of knowledge and a burning desire to start something new, Vincenzo left Trieste and returned home. “In the mornings, I worked in a bar for free, and every evening, I attended an international course to become a bartender.”

After a few years, the right opportunity finally came—a chance to take over a venue in 2012, which would soon become the home of Caffè Sansone.

The small roaster of the Sansone micro-roastery.

Sansone: more than just a bar

“At first, I made coffee like every other bar in Naples.” Meanwhile, he bought his first roasting machine—still proudly displayed on the counter today—and began experimenting with his customers. “I would offer them coffee just to see if they liked it.”

“I completed several training courses with the Specialty Coffee Association (SCA), from green coffee to brewing, sensory analysis, and roasting.” After much trial and error, he found the perfect compromise between the traditional Neapolitan tazzulella and his own vision of quality: “Our House Blend is a mix of 70% Arabica and 30% Robusta. It’s not exactly typical Neapolitan coffee, but it comes very close, thanks to a balanced sweetness, bitterness, and mild acidity.” This balance is noticeable (and well-received) when the coffee reaches the cup.

The art of bean selection and roasting

But it's hard to resist the allure of single-origin and specialty coffees, which change weekly. Take, for example, the Indian Plantation A bean from the Mysore region, with hints of incense and nutmeg, or the more intense Ethiopian Sidamo, known for its fruity notes and aromatic aftertaste.

“I always start with a high-quality selection of raw green beans. Each one has its own identity, and through roasting, I can enhance its unique characteristics.”

Behind the counter, an array of equipment is on display—from the roaster to the espresso machine, to the on-demand grinders—offering every possible brewing method: single-origin espresso, the House Blend, filtered coffee, and moka coffee. “Customers choose their preferred type of coffee, and I grind it fresh for them in 250-gram bags to take home.”

This setup makes it clear how much passion and effort have gone into crafting an artisanal production, which now reaches around 30,000 kilos annually. The sales are divided between in-store purchases, international resellers, and Campanian restaurateurs who rely on Caffè Sansone for their coffee. Over time, the shop has also become a must-visit spot for coffee-loving tourists.

Training sessions for restaurateurs and hospitality schools

For this reason, Vincenzo upgraded his small one-kilo roaster to a six-kilo model. The roasting facility moved a few doors down from the café, where it now focuses exclusively on grinding and often serves as a venue for workshops and guided visits led by Vincenzo himself. “We occasionally organise short coffee appreciation courses, in addition to the sessions I hold for hospitality schools.”

And the best part? His coffee remains affordable—house espresso costs €1.50, while single-origin specialty coffee in a double cup is priced at €4.

“An overly dark coffee is like a burnt Fiorentina”

“It hasn’t been easy. Many customers never came back, but others have become loyal regulars. They’ve learned to refine their palates,” Vincenzo explains. “Because a heavily roasted coffee is like a burnt Fiorentina steak—no one would ever want to eat that.”

Coffee needs to be explained and shared. “It’s a long educational process, and in Naples, it’s even more challenging because we have to dismantle deep-rooted stereotypes.” That’s why, from morning till night, Vincenzo is always there—behind the counter, roasting, packing, and even washing cups when needed. But he always finds time to talk with his customers, stirring up the traditional tazzulella e cafè with a swirl of innovation—at Caffè Sansone, tradition and modernity travel side by side.