by Raffaele Mosca
In Alto Adige, Schiava was once the prince of grape varieties, occupying around 70% of vineyards until it was eclipsed by the region’s white wines. Even today, however, it remains the third most cultivated grape variety. It is a vine that produces a large quantity of grapes and, even when yields are kept to a minimum, still delivers light-coloured reds focused on fresh fruit, with moderate alcohol, gentle acidity, and a light, carefree drinkability. These might seem like rustic and somewhat simple wines, but a vertical tasting of Gschleier Alte Reben, the most historic Schiava selection launched by Cantina Girlan in 1975 and made from century-old vines, debunks this prejudice.
Bunches of Schiava from Cantina Girlan. At the forefront, the vineyard from which Vernatsch Gschleier Alte Reben originates.
The vertical tasting of Gschleier in 6 Vintages
Ageing transforms the profile of Girlan’s Schiava, making it much closer to the glasses of His Majesty Pinot Noir, which itself rivals the greats of Burgundy. To understand this, just check the score and review of the 1976 vintage…
93
Alto Adige Vernatsch Gschleier Alte Reben 2022
Cantina Girlan
Appiano/Eppan (BZ)
Youthful, transparent, and vibrant, with a classic yet above-average elegant nose of red currants, liquorice, herbs, and geranium. Juicy and dynamic but not diluted; citrusy and subtly spiced notes mark the lively finish, calling for canederli and speck.
91
Alto Adige Vernatsch Gschleier Alte Reben 2016
Cantina Girlan
Appiano/Eppan (BZ)
Equally luminous in appearance, the nose reveals hints of humus and cocoa alongside the fruit. Softer but still lively, with barely perceptible tannins and a touch of almond sealing the linear finish. Less refined than the 2022 vintage, but still very young.
87
Alto Adige Vernatsch Gschleier Alte Reben 2010
Cantina Girlan
Appiano/Eppan (BZ)
The nose of this vintage is quite intriguing, though somewhat evolved, with tobacco and undergrowth dominating the fruit. Unfortunately, the palate doesn’t follow the same track: the acidity is modest, and the finish remains dry and slightly bitter.
94
Alto Adige Vernatsch Gschleier Alte Reben 1995
Cantina Girlan
Appiano/Eppan (BZ)
A leap of 25 years brings us to a mature yet vibrant wine, reminiscent of an aged Pinot Noir with its profusion of aromas of gentian, truffle, and potpourri. Light and delicate, with a vegetal touch complementing the still-intact fruit, hints of medicinal herbs extend into a remarkably lively and refined finish.
83
Alto Adige Vernatsch Gschleier Alte Reben 1983
Cantina Girlan
Appiano/Eppan (BZ)
The ageing of this Schiava, now carrying 41 springs, has yielded less favourable results. Oxidative notes of toasted almonds and broth overshadow faint traces of fruit. The sip is dominated by earthy and tobacco-like returns, finishing thin and dry.
95
Alto Adige Vernatsch Gschleier Alte Reben 1976
Cantina Girlan
Appiano/Eppan (BZ)
Incredibly elegant and vibrant, with a still-bright colour and a marvellous bouquet of dried flowers, dehydrated herbs, red currant jam, and pipe tobacco. Very subtle yet reactive, with intact fruit peeking through balsamic and woodland nuances; a long finish with not a hint of oxidation. Extraordinary.
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