Burgundy’s resilience: growth in fine French wines despite a challenging vintage

Despite a smaller harvest, Laurent Delaunay, president of the BIVB (Burgundy Wine Interprofessional Bureau), stated that Burgundy is "in a favourable position with positive growth in both the French market and exports," a situation also thanks to the high quality that characterises the 2024 vintage.

A remarkable vintage

Following the excellent 2023 vintage in terms of both quality and quantity, 2024 presented numerous challenges for winemakers throughout the growing season. Above-average rainfall, unevenly distributed, combined with localized frost and hailstorms, caused significant damage. "These conditions created a fertile ground for vine diseases, requiring immense efforts throughout the growing season to protect the harvest," reads the BIVB’s vintage report.

Despite these difficulties, there is good news regarding the quality of the wines. "Seasonal climatic fluctuations significantly impacted the harvest. However, careful selection and meticulous winemaking will unlock its potential, resulting in delightful wines, both white and red."

Another optimistic point from the BIVB is that prices are expected to remain "fairly reasonable" with this vintage, avoiding the price surge seen in 2021 when spring frosts depleted wine stocks. "The abundant 2022 and 2023 vintages have ensured ample stock and reasonable prices," said Laurent Delaunay. This contrasts with 2021, when frost-related damages led to "skyrocketing prices and negative growth." For the 2023–2024 campaign, sales have increased by 1.6% compared to 2022–2023, according to the BIVB.

Positive Export Trends

Furthermore, "exports in the first half of 2024 increased by 4.6% in volume and 3.7% in value compared to the previous year, surpassing €900 million for the first time in a decade, reaching nearly €926 million." Delaunay attributes this to a global demand for Burgundy wines at reasonable prices. "Once prices are under control, consumers are eager to taste Burgundy."

The BIVB reported positive growth in the United States, with sales up by 14.6% in value and 7.4% in volume, and in Canada, where volume increased by 9% and value by 8%. Delaunay also noted a "revival" in Asian markets, with China showing a 35% volume increase since the beginning of the year.

The United States, United Kingdom, Canada, Sweden, and Japan currently account for nearly 60% of Burgundy's export volumes and just over 50% of sales. Meanwhile, Australia, South Korea, and Brazil have been identified as three promising emerging markets.

Contrasting Fortunes with Bordeaux

This contrasts sharply with the other major French wine region, Bordeaux, which is grappling with vineyard uprooting, declining sales, a 2024 vintage marked by a downy mildew epidemic, and a rush among Chinese entrepreneurs to sell their properties. Michel Bettane has highlighted the region's internal market issues in The World of Fine Wine, exposing what no longer works in Bordeaux's trade.