This is a comparison like few others: six pairs of wines, the same wine, stored in the same place under identical conditions, with either the classic cork closure or a screw cap. The tasting, conducted at the Gambero Rosso stand during Vinitaly in Verona, included some old labels, going back as far as 2007. No one, not even those conducting the tasting, knew which was which, nor did the producers in the room, winemakers, and industry journalists.
The Screw Cap wins
The final result is clear: the screw cap wins. The tasting was participated by winemakers associated with the group "Gli Svitati": Walter Massa, Mario Pojer, Graziano Prà, Silvio Jermann, Frantz Haas Junior, and Sergio Germano. Here are the 12 bottles analyzed in the blind tasting.
92
Langhe Riesling Herzu 2016
Ettore Germano
CORK
Still very young color, greenish reflections, and an enchanting aromatic profile for this Rhine Riesling, rightly among the most celebrated in Italy. At 550 meters altitude, with late harvest: aromas of white peach and chamomile, the palate is full and juicy, the same residual sugar is perceived more distinctly. Long and relaxed finish.
94
Langhe Riesling Herzu 2016
Ettore Germano
SCREW CAP
Very light and bright color, with even greener reflections compared to the cork. The aromas are significantly more balsamic and fragrant, with notes of mint and eucalyptus. The palate is vibrant, crisp in development, with more pronounced acidity. It has more fragrance and freshness, seeming like the same wine with three fewer years.
91
Soave Classico Otto 2014
Graziano Pra
CORK
We move to volcanic soils in Monteforte d’Alpone (Verona). The color is a well-concentrated yellow, still bright, with aromas ranging from papaya to mango, with a saffron base. The palate is broad, creamy, with fine and measured spiciness. Slight decline in the finish. "A difficult vintage, but excellent for whites," says Graziano.
93
Soave Classico Otto 2014
Graziano Pra
SCREW CAP
The difference is mainly in the reflections, here clearer and more luminous. The aromatic profile is more restrained, with notes of exotic fruit alternating with almond and hawthorn. The palate has different freshness, tonic development, for a wine that combines pulp and dynamism. And, above all, the finish accelerates, showing at least 10 years ahead.
94
Vintage Tunina 2013
Jerman
CORK
The closest pair in the tastings. The flagship blend (sauvignon, chardonnay, ribolla gialla, and a balance of malvasia) since ’75 presents with still intact color, broad and mature aromas of hazelnut, honey, and flowers. Some tasters particularly appreciate the very creamy and satisfying tactile plane, for a very long and complete finish.
95
Vintage Tunina 2013
Jerman
SCREW CAP
The reflection is slightly less golden. The aromas are distinctly more herbaceous and fragrant, the sauvignon component is more clearly noticeable. The palate has more punch, but does not lack the spicy opening and notes of honey and dried fruit to complete the profile. The finish is slightly more taut and vertical, of equal persistence.
n.c.
Müller Thurgau Palai 2007
Pojer e Sandri
CORK
When the two wines are served, a smile escapes. This one indeed has a full orange color, with slightly bright amber reflections. On the nose, the aromas are those of a wine that has already given its all, oxidized apple, resin, cereal notes. "First vintage of the double closure: the turning point wine, almost all the corked bottles have collapsed," notes Mario Pojer.
93
Müller Thurgau Palai 2007
Pojer e Sandri
SCREW CAP
Bright yellow color, doesn’t even seem related to the same classically corked wine. The aromas recall lemon peel, freshly cut grass, tomato leaf. The palate has a vibrant entry, then develops on broader and creamier tones. It has qualities of harmony, richness, and depth: excellent hold.
91
A.A. Pinot Nero 2013
Franz Haas
CORK
Both wines feature the artistic label by Riccardo Schweizer, but the liquid inside is very different. More than the color, they insist on two different registers. Mature aromas of ripe cherry, undergrowth, and licorice; the palate is rich, velvety, with a rather dense tannic texture and a slight alcoholic sensation in the finish.
93
A. A. Pinot Nero 2013
Franz Haas
SCREW CAP
Clear breath of cherry and violet, for a much younger and more fragrant aromatic profile. But what stands out is the different sensation on the palate where the wine develops more clearly and deeply, spreading gently on fruity and floral tones, with a vivid balsamic memory. The tannic perception is totally different.
91
Colli Tortonesi Monleale 2016
Vigneti Massa
CORK
On Walter’s Barbera, the panel is for the first time not unanimous. Although the majority agrees that the screw-capped one is more fragrant and interesting. But here in the glass, there’s a hint of volatile and very light brett that gives a certain unpredictability to the earthy and fruity notes: less balanced but fascinating and delicious.
90
Colli Tortonesi Monleale 2016
Vigneto Massa
SCREW CAP
Always concentrated color but more vivid reflections. The aromas recall cherry, undergrowth, and licorice. The palate is dynamic, the fruit crunchy, for a more precise and linear taste cleanliness. Considering all the scores it would be a tie, but we want to give the cork at least the glory of a consolation goal.
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