Seven resorts linked by the Aurelia road, bathed by a fabulous sea and surrounded by the valleys of a hilly hinterland that lends itself to hiking and regenerating walks. If the “piazzetta” of Portofino, a historic haunt of the jet set, and Santa Margherita Ligure, taken by storm by bathers arriving from Lombardy and Piedmont, are the undisputed stars of the Gulf also known as Marconi's Gulf - here Guglielmo carried out his first radio experiments -, elsewhere there is no shortage of goodies: La Baia del Silenzio in Sestri Levante, the Santuario delle Grazie in Chiavari, the Museo del Pizzo in Rapallo, the damask tradition and the rocky cliffs of Zoagli. A natural oasis that over time has also become a gourmet destination. Thanks to targeted investments and an eclectic land/sea recipe book, promoted by trattorias faithful to the line and revisited in fine dining from the widest horizons.
Where to eat in Golfo del Tigullio
Chiavari
DUO Restaurant
Restaurant. Contemporary proposal and young team that fearlessly experiments and researches by focusing on the material, whether it is the salvaged ceramics of the dishes or the poor local fish in novel combinations. Ad hoc selection in the cellar, house bread.
DUO Restaurant - via Senatore Dallorso, 10 - 0185 475658
Bisson
Wine shop. Resale of the winery of the same name, founded in 1978. The vineyards are located in Riva Trigoso, while here you can shop choosing from more than 1,000 Ligurian and Italian references and spirits. There is no shortage of well-known names and small producers.
Bisson - c.so Gianelli, 28 - 0185 314462 - bissonvini.it
Boccon Divino
Restaurant. Certainty in the historic center, bistro-style and with a seafood menu where typical recipes - cappon magro or baccalà mantecato - compete with more innovative and elaborate ideas. Don't deprive yourself of the crudes, even the chocolate desserts. Wine cellar stocked and not obvious.
Boccon Divino - via Entella, 18 - 0185 362964 - boccondivino.info
Gran Caffè Defilla
Cafe & Bar. Historic place under the downtown arcades, classically styled and with outdoor seating. Popular for breakfasts, pastries or with the obligatory "focaccia and cappuccino" combo, ice creams, granitas, as well as for aperitif hour, with unambitious but good mixology. In the adjacent Ristoro, regional menu and good wines. Shop for purchases.
Gran Caffè Defilla - c.so G. Garibaldi, 4 - 0185 309829
Da Felice
Restaurant. The blackboard informs you of the dishes of the day, which depend on the season and on the market offer, and of the products of the estate's farm, where extra virgin olive oil is also produced. The line travels on garden and sea as regional recipe book dictates, but with a personal touch; local wine cellar and beyond.
Da Felice - loc. Scogli - c.so Valparaiso, 136 - 0185 308016 - ristorantefelice.it
Gelato Pachamama
Gelateria. On the waterfront, a little hole with an artisanal philosophy where they use mostly products from local companies, and in any case from as short a supply chain as possible and always certain. Equal satisfaction on creams and fruit (try the variegated with sour cherries from Tigullio).
Gelato Pachamama - via Preli, 7d - 333 4254729 - gelatopachamama.it
Cremeria Spinola
Gelateria. Another realm of cold weather curated by master Matteo Spinola, author of top-notch, genuine ice cream that easily calls for an encore. The assortment varies by period, the most creative combinations are a pleasant surprise. Another location on Corso Dante, in the heart of the town.
Cremeria Spinola - c.so Valparaiso, 118 - 342 7582497
Lavagna
Impronta d’Acqua
Restaurant. Headquarters of Ivan Maniago, open mind, eclectic experience behind him, firm hand. You should let yourself be drawn into one of the tasting menus, often thematic (fifth quarter, game, etc.), where it is impossible to get bored.
Impronta d’Acqua - fraz. Cavi - via Aurelia, 2121 - 375 5291077 - improntadacqua.com
Raieü
Trattoria. A true, no-strings-attached place where the substance is in a catch of the day treated with sailor's wisdom. Marinated anchovies, fried fish, tuna in carpaccio, all washed down with good house white and served with genuine affability.
Raieü - via Milite Ignoto, 23 - 0185 390145
Portofino
Panificio Canale
Street Food. A small-town institution, family-run and a favorite destination for many VIPs. The must-have is the focaccia, "nature" or enriched with other toppings, praised in its time even by the New York Times.
Panificio Canale - via Roma, 30 - 0185 269248 - panificiocanale.it
Cracco Portofino
Restaurant. In the former Pitosforo, a Portofino icon, is now the refined and versatile home of Carlo Cracco, "star chef" based in Milan's Galleria. Two terraces, the pergola in the sun, the bar counter in the rock, all sea in front and inside. And an all-day long opening with fine dining, cafeteria, pizzeria, bistro, cocktail bar, all under the banner of elegant style for an exclusive experience. Aided by service with attention to detail.
Cracco Portofino - Molo Umberto I, 9 - 0185 1636026
DaV Mare
Restaurant. Another griffe of the local restaurant industry that has chosen Portofino to establish an exceptional "trattoria di pesce." Here are the Cerea di Vittorio in Brusaporto, who inside the Belmond Mare oversee the line led by one of their students. The menu is mouthwatering and classy, in the house tradition. Cellar and staff perfect for the place and the clientele.
DaV Mare - via Roma, 2 - 0185 267802 - davmare.com
Gepi
Ice cream shop. In business for more than a decade, it is a reference with several signs under its belt and genuine, artisanal production. Delicious creams ranging from the classics to elaborations such as almond with pistachio cream and candied orange, Sicilian-inspired, pure fruit, savory flavors to try, see Cantabrian anchovies. Also bar.
Gepi - p.tta della Magnolia, 2 - 0185 269165
Santa Margherita Ligure
L’Altro Eden
Restaurant. A classic, on the pier and overlooking the harbor, the child of another historic Rapallo restaurant now closed. The heart is the large counter displaying the catch of the day, which arrives from local fishing boats. In the best tradition, you choose and the kitchen takes care of the rest. The outdoor area its a plus.
L’Altro Eden - via Calata Porto, 11 - 335 6804301 - ristoranteeden.com
Langosteria Paraggi
Bistro. Bagni Fiore, managed by the Hotel Splendido Belmond, is now in the hands of Enrico Buonocore, a sharp entrepreneur and owner of a place that is making sparks in Milan (and now boasts a spin-off in Sankt Moritz). An interlude of true luxury pieds dans l'eau, for a high-spending international clientele.
Langosteria Paraggi - fraz. Paraggi - via Paraggi a Mare, 1 - 0185 046284 - langosteria.com
Gelateria Centrale
Gelateria. Beloved by locals and tourists alike, it is known for the Pinguino, a creamy ice cream - flavors of your choice - dipped in melted chocolate, which solidifies when cold and becomes a mouthwatering waffle. The offerings are classic; there are also cakes and sticks. Coffee corner.
Gelateria Centrale - l.go Antonio Giusti, 14 - 0185 287480
Österia Ö Magazìn
Bistro. The head office, Ö Magazin, is a historic Portofino sign at Calata Marconi 34, offering an eclectic menu that is always good. Here, however, the protagonist is the most authentic Ligurian cuisine of the hinterland, made with the best local products, mostly Slow Food Presidia. New this season is the "Salumeria di Mare”, with things like squid lard or tuna mosciame, a typical Genoese preparation.
Österia Ö Magazìn - via Cairoli, 3 - 0185 698962 - omagazin.it
Antica Drogheria Seghezzo
Gastronomy. Store as there are few left, with old-fashioned charm and shelves full of typical products and food and wine souvenirs. Wines, liquors, preserves as well as fruits, vegetables, cold cuts and cheeses, plus adjacent market, bar corner, deli.
Antica Drogheria Seghezzo - via Cavour, 1 - 0185 287172 - seghezzo.com
Sestri Levante
100% Naturale
Ice cream shop. Nomen omen (100% Natural): choice products and careful workmanship. Try the Sicilian-style granitas, classic creams, cakes and "cookie" ice creams. Specialty of the house is the coffee "panera," a typical semifreddo. Other location in Via Bighetti in Chiavari.
100% Naturale - via XXV Aprile, 126 - 0185 1757958
Balin Sestri Levante
Restaurant. "Panissa salad" and duck, thistle and giblets. On the waterfront, a gem with a few tables with contemporary appeal, even in design. Fish but also meat in an inspiring menu. Homemade bread.
Balin Sestri Levante - v.le Rimembranza, 33 - 349 9472695
Osteria Cantine Cattaneo
Restaurant. Vegetable garden, oil mill, rooms and refreshments, all in a 17th-century farmhouse that contributes in no small part to the atmosphere. The cuisine has evolved over time: veal sweetbreads & Montoro onions; spiced pork tortelli, dashi, Lavagna broccoli; U.S.-style diaframma and grilled endive.
Osteria Cantine Cattaneo - s.da Vicinale della Madonnetta, 1 - 0185 487431 - cantinecattaneo.it
Polpo Mario
Restaurant. A solid reference in the Levant, with a homey, relaxed atmosphere and a menu founded on what the family fishing boat brings in. Maison classics are a must, from the many variations of octopus to fried paranza. Staff trained to the full house.
Polpo Mario - via XV Aprile, 163 - 0185 480203 - polpomario.com
Gran Caffè Tritone
Ice cream shop. An old-fashioned evergreen that is also a cafeteria. On the cold front, very popular, classic variants where ice cream cream, the house specialty, stands out. Also good are the granitas, as well as the mixed bowls and the delicious affogati.Gran Caffè Tritone - p.zza F. Bo, 1 - 0185 41169 - tritonesestrilevante.it
Rapallo
Bar Pasticceria Carlo
Café & Bar. Evergreen much loved by locals, a neighborhood staple with an established offering especially for breakfast, under the banner of brioche and yeast, coffee, cappuccinos and juices. Good small pastries.
Bar Pasticceria Carlo - via Mameli, 335 - 0185 54165
Le Cupole del Grand Hotel Bristol
Restaurant. At the top of the refined hospitality structure, recently renovated, is the gourmet that intercepts the international clientele that can spend but not only. The cuisine has modern flair based on local resources. Remarkable view, professional service.
Le Cupole del Grand Hotel Bristol - via Aurelia Orientale, 369 - 0185 273313 - grandhotelbristol.it
U Giancu
Restaurant. It is the "stage" of Fausto Oneto, volcanic chef and patron, assisted by a close-knit and engaging team that makes the experience all-around enjoyable. The green is outside-the regenerating garden-and inside, in a menu studded with tributes to the Ligurian kitchen garden. Leave room for dessert. Cellar with small natural productions and beers from the family microbrewery. Nice "farming together" initiative in the estate orchard.
U Giancu - via San Massimo, 78 - 0185 261212 - ugiancu.it
Zoagli
L’Arenella
Restaurant. In the cove of the same name, a seafood table with postcard views and a tried-and-true proposal in the classic style, revamped after the 2018 swell. Among the house must-haves is the imperial fritto misto.
L’Arenella - lungomare dei Naviganti, 1 - 339 4434114 – ristorantearenellazoagli.it
Dove dormire nel Golfo del Tigullio
Chiavari
Loft Garibaldi
Bed and Breakfast. In centro e vicino alla stazione, ospita in una suite, una doppia e un appartamento arredati in uno stile personale, con tocchi vintage. Ideale anche per eventi e come set cinematografico.
Loft Garibaldi - c.so Garibaldi, 51/4 - 320 2210328 - www.loftgaribaldi.com
Lavagna
Villa Riviera Resort
Albergo diffuso. Exclusive resort in two ancient villas set in a 15,000-square-meter park, with 15 rooms, fine dining (Aria), a traditional table (Terra Osteria), "infinity pool" with a view and outdoor spa among olive trees. Children 16 years and older allowed.
Villa Riviera Resort - via Costa, 18 - 331 3007385 - villarivieraresort.com
Portofino
Belmond Splendido Mare
Hotel. A makeover a couple of years ago has not affected the charm of this icon of Portofino hospitality, an elegant property that hosted VIPs from around the world in the 1960s. The Cereas with DaV Mare operate here (see).
Belmond Splendido Mare - via Roma, 2 - 0185 267802 - www.belmond.com
Santa Margherita Ligure
Jolanda
Hotel. A refined four-star with 19th-century furnishings and rooms of various sizes and for every need. In the in-house restaurant, Basilico, a fresh, Mediterranean menu based on local ingredients.
Jolanda - via L. Costa, 6 - 0185 287512 – hoteljolanda.it
Sestri Levante
Hotel Vis à Vis
Hotel. Set in the Bay of Silence, it is an oasis of peace and relaxation with enchanting views and elegant seafaring-style accommodations. The in-house restaurant Olimpo serves Mediterranean cuisine that revisits Ligurian tradition with a modern twist.
Hotel Vis à Vis - via della Chiusa, 28 - 0185 42661 - www.hotelvisavis.com