In an interview with Luigi Cataldi Madonna, a historic wine producer in Abruzzo, we asked if the Pecorino grape was from Abruzzo or Marche. He replied, "Who knows if sooner or later we will find an answer; in the meantime, I am conducting a genetic research." Because the debate that has arisen around this Central Italian grape variety is precisely about its geographical origin; only that is now being questioned because, regarding the results, both the high average quality and the peaks of excellence are evident to everyone.
The common belief is that the rediscovery of the grape is attributed to Guido Cocci Grifoni, a producer from Marche, who in the 1980s went in search of a native grape variety he had found traces of in some bibliographic testimonies. The investigation led him to Arquata del Tronto, a small village near Mount Vettore, in an area that marks the border between Lazio, Marche, and Abruzzo, at 1000 meters above sea level, in a small semi-abandoned vineyard. But it is also true that the first to write "pecorino" on a label was Luigi Cataldi Madonna in Abruzzo, who planted the grape variety's vines in Ofena, the headquarters of his winery, in 1990.
From here, a success story begins. The grape, which had been abandoned due to its low productivity, is now a huge source of wealth for both the viticulture of Piceno and Abruzzo. The grape has a mountain character, does not disdain north exposures and cool vintages, is capable of concentrating sugars (especially when descending in altitude towards the sea), giving imposing structures, sometimes even too opulent, however, mitigated by acidity and savoriness. Wines produced with Pecorino enjoy, in the best versions, aromatic and gustatory richness, invigorating acidity, and aging potential.
The Best Value Pecorino d'Abruzzo for the Berebene Guide 2024
Regarding the Marche versions, here are some recommendations, while here we focus only on Abruzzo labels, as usual, wines reviewed in the Berebene 2024 guide by Gambero Rosso with ratings above 90 points and costing less than 20 euros.
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