The best ramen in Milan, six restaurants to try according to Gambero Rosso

It is good to know that Japanese etiquette dictates the resounding “chucking” of ramen, a manoeuvre that may be annoying at these latitudes but which in the East certifies the meal's high level of enjoyment. Moreover, what we have all come to know as a - precisely - Japanese speciality is actually a richer variant of the Chinese “laa-mei” (or “lo-mein”), an egg noodle broth enriched with meat, fish or vegetables. Certainly in recent years it has become a trend, starting in Milan where the hegemony of sushi has been undermined by the emergence of a series of establishments dedicated to this other dish that was practically unknown until recently. The basic recipe calls for noodles cooked in a meat or vegetable broth and miso (a typical condiment, the best version of which is made in Kakunodate, also known as 'little Kyoto') or soy sauce plus slices of kamaboko ('little coloured discs' made from oily fish and surimi), seaweed, meat or fish and spring onion.

Where to eat ramen in Milan

Casa Ramen

For those who love the specialness of the Japanese people, this is a 'cult' restaurant, anonymous from the street - it is in the Isola area - were it not for the long queue at rush hour. Inside there is a large table and a counter where ramen is prepared in four variations: the classic tonkotsu (in a broth made with bones and pork cooked for a long time), the spicier 'miso on fire', the vegan one and a 'dry' one. Simplicity in this case rhymes with perfection of the dish, with top ingredients and maximum attention to technique. There are also bao, while in the cellar some sake and a couple of beers.

Casaramen - via L. Porro Lambertenghi, 25 - 02 39444560 – casaramen.it

Casa Ramen super

Those who are not satisfied with the essentiality of Casaramen (see above) can discover a more articulated world in its spin-off within a five-minute walk. Here, apart from four versions of ramen (the vegetarian one is a cult), there is a small menu where many (good) Italic ingredients are used with Japanese techniques and an eye to the trend, see the bao department. There are also interesting real dishes such as 'trout on fire', fried red turnips and chawanmushi. The pride of the house is famously the soy sauce made in Italy. The place is pleasant, the service is fast. And some sake is worth tasting.

Casaramen super - via U. Bassi, 26 - 02 83529210 – casaramen.it

Nozomi

One of the references for Japanese cuisine in Milan's capital city. A restaurant that challenges the beliefs of so many people who link Japanese tradition almost only to the famous raw fish. In fact, this is an address that specialises primarily on ramen as well as yakimono (grilled meats), fried agemono and kushiage (breaded kebabs). The sweet closure is entrusted to desserts such as daifuku, rice noodles filled with sweet azuki beans. Everything is accompanied by a choice of wine or beer or a fine selection of sake. All this in a cosy and well-kept environment.

Nozomi - via P. Calvi, 2 - 02 76023197 – Facebook

Osaka

An institution, this typical restaurant in the best sense of the word. Half-hidden in a busy street, labyrinthine, of strict Japanese ritual without concession to fashion. Chef Takimoto Takaaki, a long experience in Osaka, offers ingredient-based, market cuisine. The menu is extensive and varies slightly between lunch and dinner. It is useless to list all the types of sushi, sashimi, nigiri, makimono, ramen, soba and udon, which are in any case excellent. Better to focus on the specialities: the Kaiseki menu offers a complete overview (120 euro). And Nabe dishes are cooked directly by the customer on a small cooker: beef or Wagyu sukiyaki and shabu-shabu, a kind of meat fondue. Desserts are negligible. At lunch, a few quick assortments. Efficient service, good wine and sake list.

Osaka - c.so G. Garibaldi, 68 - 02 29060678 – milanoosaka.com

Ramenamano

You say ramen and you think of Japan, but in this inexpensive eatery with its minimalist décor, Chinese lamian is on offer. Right at the entrance is the open kitchen where the noodles, made with organic Italian flour, are hand-rolled. The customer chooses the thickness and size, and the lamian are then served in beef or vegetable broth and spicy sauce. Portions are generous, but if you wish, you can also try a small starter such as steamed fresh lotus or boiled eggs with green tea, star anise and cinnamon. Alternatively, there are good fried chicken wings or braised pork meatballs. Service is quick but polite. Minimal drinks menu.

Ramen a mano - via P. Lomazzo, 20 - 02 36536559 – ramenamano.it

Zazà Ramen

The ambience is modern, elegant, lively, and also hosts exhibitions and special evenings, with the possibility of reserving a 40-seat room and a 10-seat privé in the bright basement for events. The menu, which is seasonal, is all about zensai, ramen and donburi (bowls) adapted - but without abjuring - to European tastes, starting with the ingredients. Away with squid seasoned with shiso, yuzu parsnip puff; then veal ramen, wheat noodles also in a whole wheat version (and spicy at choice); donburi with taro curry, baby spinach and beni shoga (white rice with fruit and vegetables). Finish with ice cream, mochi, or Pearls of Japan with salted caramel tapioca and citrus sauce. Dedicated lunch proposal. Valuable gin, sake, Japanese beers and wines by the glass. And to celebrate the 10th anniversary there is also yuzuzazà panettone.

Zazà Ramen - via Solferino, 48 - 02 36799000 – zazaramen.it