Where to eat in and around Ancona. The 5 best restaurants chosen by Gambero Rosso

The queen of the Conero promontory, overlooking the sea from above, is the largest port in the central Adriatic. The rocky bays and deep sea attract throngs of tourists in summer, but it is in winter, without crowds, that one can fully enjoy these unspoilt views. Moreover, the city itself is a perfect destination for lovers of history and architecture, and of course good food. Here are the best places included in the 2024 Ristoranti d'Italia guide.

Where to eat in Ancona. The 5 best restaurants chosen by Gambero Rosso

Clandestino Susci Bar

Restaurant. From Isabella Allende to D'Annunzio via Rossini, it is truly poetry that is recounted in the "Eros e Susci 2023" menu signed by Moreno Cedroni - Tre Forchette at the Madonnina del Pescatore in Senigallia - for his now iconic restaurant (open until 10 December). An excursus of dishes that recounts sensuality through crisp flavours of sea, fruit, fermentations. From “Peccato Originale” - apple granita with fig water and vodka - to “Venere di Botticelli” - freshly seared scallop with aubergine, fermented purple cabbage and liquid and herbs - it is a continuous crescendo of intensity of flavours. A journey made of tastes but also of gestures, such as “licking your fingers”, necessary to appreciate the last dish: tulakalum chocolate, cassis, pink pepper and violet powder. In addition to the annual tasting menu, it is possible to choose from historical dishes or à la carte. The breathtaking location directly overlooking the sea allows you to eat to the sound of the waves, pampered by informal and polite service and applauding timing. A well-constructed wine list with space for national and foreign labels and a fair focus on the territory. Best to book, also conveniently online.

Clandestino Susci Bar - loc. Portonovo - fraz. Poggio - baia di Portonovo - 071 801422 – morenocedroni.it

Marcello

Restaurant. Marcello Nicolini has no doubts, especially at sunset: “we are located in the most beautiful place in the world”. Indeed, the bay of Portonovo has great charm. He and his young kitchen team think about making the place even more unforgettable. In his restaurant at the water's edge, he offers an extensive menu where the undisputed star is the mosciolo (wild mussel), which can only be caught at certain times of the year. There is also more on the menu: sardines au gratin with green bread, steamed fish with homemade mayonnaise, chitarrine with shellfish and crustaceans, and then second courses based on grilled, fried and pan-fried fish of the day. Verdicchio and wines from the region rightly dominate the fridge. Courteous and willing service. In summer, a little more patience and reservations are needed.

Marcello - loc. Portonovo - fraz. Poggio - 071 801183 – illaghetto.com

Sot'aj archi

Trattoria. An all-female team, lavishing kind and friendly service, runs this historic seafood trattoria located right under the arches (hence the name), the Marconi arcades, a stone's throw from the harbour and the Mole Vanvitelliana. And mellifluous are the hands that rule the cookers and the choices from the market: the raw fish, the steamed (ca)nocchie, the sardoncini a scottadito, the bombetti (sea snails) in porchetta, that is, with red sauce flavoured with wild fennel. The freshly cooked pasta dishes include ciabattoni with squid and prawns. For main course shellfish and fish of the day are cooked as the customer prefers. Otherwise there is sole guazzetto or cuttlefish with peas. The cellar has been expanded: in addition to Verdicchio there are good whites, bubbles and Champagne.

Sot'aj archi - via Marconi, 93 - 071 202441 – ristorantesotajarchi.it

La Tavola del Carmine

Trattoria. Not far from the suburbs, in the middle of the countryside, surrounded by olive groves and fields of vegetables from the Azienda Agricola del Carmine, the welcome, food and produce are at home. The menu, based mainly on their own garden produce, is a 5-course meal for 40 euro, with the option of choosing à la carte (the ricotta gnocchi with nettle sauce is remarkable). Wine list based on the territory, pleasant ambience and very professional service.

La Tavola del Carmine - fraz. Torrette - s.da del Carmine, 51 - 071 889403 – latavoladelcarmine.com

WineNot?

Wine Bar. Inside the Grand Hotel Palace, but with a separate entrance, Wine Not? is the wine bar of the well-known Marche Region winery Umani Ronchi. Easily reached from the harbour, it is open from aperitif time to enjoy a glass of wine with tasty preparations such as fried olives all'ascolana (homemade), fried cremini, fish balls, and tartare. If you wish, you can stay for a full meal, taking advantage of the good wine cellar, which is not only related to house wines.

WineNot? - l.mare L. Vanvitelli 24b - 071 2074832 – winenotancona.it