Etna wines and the (re)discovery of two native Sicilian grape varieties. The tastings by Gambero Rosso

The tastings of Sicilian wines for the Vini d'Italia 2025 guide by Gambero Rosso highlighted the main issue of the 2023 vintage, which was marked by a massive attack of downy mildew on Sicilian vineyards. This, along with a much more limited impact from climate change, led to a production decrease compared to 2022 – approximately 40%, with even higher peaks in some areas, so much so that several producers were forced to limit production of certain labels significantly, or in some cases, not produce them at all. Having noted this important quantitative data, let’s now move on to the substance of the matter.

The confirmation of Etna wines and the success of two native varieties

Etna once again confirms the character and personality of its wines – most of which are from vintages prior to 2023 – largely from red grape cultivars (of the 11 Etna wines awarded Tre Bicchieri 2025, 8 are reds). These are elegant, deep, multifaceted wines, with a strong sense of terroir: in short, they are rich in the qualities that have made them a true legend in markets around the world. It is also – finally – time for catarratto, a grape variety long undervalued, perhaps due to a lack of awareness of its worth, which is now receiving its due recognition in western Sicily. There are many labels that impressed our panels with their quality, richness of flavour, potential for ageing, and strong character. This variety, historically centred in the vast Alcamo region, is mainly – though not exclusively – linked to an active movement over the past few decades in the so-called natural wine sector, known as the “Catarratto Boys,” which is now enjoying well-deserved success.

The Catarratto Boys, the young winemakers gathered around Aldo Viola in Alcamo

This group, with Aldo Viola as its leading figure, draws on the traditions of the area, focusing on sustainability, ethics, precision winemaking, and respect for nature. These aspects are bound together by a strong sense of personal responsibility, resulting in various expressions ranging from organic to biodynamic to orange wines, with an average quality that is truly remarkable.

A small side note: we have the impression (almost a certainty) that there is a renewed interest in high-end nero d’Avola wines, a historic grape variety that several wineries are once again betting on. We have noticed versions that are very different from the past, with sleek, complex profiles that are quite interesting. A change of pace? Time will tell.