Everything that’s left unsaid about dealcoholised wine: clear rules and sugar limits are needed

Best consumed by May 2026. On the desk, we have a bottle of dealcoholised wine. The expiry date on the back label reminds us of its inability to age, just like an ordinary soft drink. The total sugar content per litre is around 70 grams, yet it is less perceptible on a sensory level because the acidity has been adjusted. The list of ingredients also includes the preservative E242. All of this is allowed because there is no EU-wide regulation governing dealcoholised wine. In some countries, such as Italy, adding water and flavourings is prohibited, while in others, there is ample room for creativity. How is it possible that a product authorised by the European Union to be sold under the name "wine" does not have standardised regulations to protect both producers and consumers?

Removing alcohol is not enough

All communication focuses on the absence of alcohol and its supposed health benefits compared to conventional wine. But what about the sugar content? And the other additives consumed?
There are, of course, rare virtuous exceptions, as we observed at the recent Wine Paris event, where the Zero Tasting pavilion ran out of samples by the second day, as confirmed by the fair’s CEO, Rodolphe Lameyse. The true scale of this movement is unclear, but it is certainly being exaggerated in this current, erratic phase of consumer behaviour. Curiosity is high, but in terms of taste, there is little to enjoy. The average quality is appalling, ranging from watered-down flavours to the tragic, starchy taste of dealcoholised wine, reminiscent of boiled rice.
And here’s something important to note: a good dealcoholised wine should actually cost more than a traditional one.

The logic is straightforward: the process begins with a fully finished wine, which is then dealcoholised. The most common method currently involves the use of membrane-based osmosis. This process requires a significant amount of energy and, crucially, large quantities of water that cannot be reused. In short, it is far removed from the so-called magic word: "sustainability".

Stricter regulations are needed

From a technological standpoint, rapid progress has been made. However, beyond the experimental phase, many wineries have not reflected on the cultural and market positioning of dealcoholised wine, simply chasing market trends without deeper consideration. Many have outsourced production to external brands, running the risk of losing their identity.

Clarity is urgently needed because the line between opportunity and serious threat is razor-thin. We expect stricter regulation soon, as well as a new narrative that keeps the two categories separate: dealcoholised wine should not be seen as a mere substitute for traditional wine but as a distinct product with its own identity, aimed at a new consumer who (as yet) does not appreciate wine. It should serve as an entry point into a new experiential dimension.

The current crisis in the wine industry is a cultural crisis—one of messaging and identity. Consumers, markets, and even the climate are changing and evolving, creating confusion among both wineries and enthusiasts. That’s why clear regulations and bold decisions are needed. The wine industry already has enough enemies.