"If we want everything to stay as it is, everything must change." At Casa Ferrari, the words of Giuseppe Tomasi di Lampedusa in "TheLeopard" resonate. A stylistic remodulation is underway, as French winemaker Cyril Brun told us, in line with an important production history. It will take time to assess the fruits of the new direction, but already from the work on the liqueurs and on some details, we notice adjustments with the past. And we're talking about a glorious past; the Lunellis, under the winemaking direction of Ruben Larentis, have written the most beautiful pages of Italian Metodo Classico. We studied new and old releases, here are our tastings.
Ferrari preview: the tasting
Perlé 2018 (disgorged in 2023)
Fresh, pure, and harmonious: Chardonnay in full Ferrari style. The 2018 is a very promising vintage; compared to past editions, the perlage seems more integrated already: there's a bit more pulp to give roundness. Fragrant with yeast, white melon, and anise; balsamic and perfectly smooth finish. Ah, how easy it is to drink. Excellent value for money.
Giulio Ferrari Riserva del Fondatore 2015 (Preview)
We don't remember a Giulio so delicious just a few weeks after disgorgement. "Gourmand," Cyril tells us. The Chardonnay vineyard at Maso Pianizza, 550 meters, has a generous voice of ripe and juicy apple, so clear that you want to bite into it, then a twist of cedar and ginger; on the palate, it meets a harder dimension, for a clear contrast that adds movement and enhances the drinkability. Broad, energetic, surprisingly long. Fully convincing. The dosage has increased to about 5 grams. Giulio, we remember, was not produced in the 2013, 2014, and 2017 vintages.
Riserva Lunelli 2015 (disgorged in 2023)
In recent years, Riserva Lunelli has improved a lot, putting company hierarchies back into question. This is a great version to put in the cellar: a symphony of spices, almond and hazelnut, pepper, the toasted note of wood dances in a complete and deep structure. Refined modulation, particularly creamy and rhythmic perlage. The powerful and precise finish hints at a portentous evolution over time.
Analogical tastings
When going back in time, you need an ear. "It's a bit like with vintage cars, you have to pay attention to the details: the engine noise, the quality of materials, workmanship. It requires a certain attention," recalls Marcello Lunelli, vice president of Ferrari. Let's go back in time with a series of analogical tastings, vinyl, armchair, and slow rhythm.
Riserva Lunelli 2009 (disgorged in 2017)
When we tasted it for the Guide in 2017, we didn't imagine this kind of future. We were wrong. The evolution is slow and gradual, the spices have penetrated into a structure that has lightened in weight and at the same time intensified in flavor and articulation. Savory and buttery notes find rhythm thanks to a embroidered and continuous carbonic. The pairing with the sumptuous pigeon of the young chef Edoardo Fumagalli (Restaurant Margon) is illegal.
Perlé Extra Brut RD 2006 (disgorged in 2023)
16 years on the lees to raise the bar. The starting point is accompanied by a dense and important aromatic range. It is mature with toasted notes of brioche, apricot, and saffron. It is opulent and rich, but on the palate, it never quite finds the starting rhythm. At the moment, it's like a penguin. On land.
Perlé Brut 2006 (disgorged in 2012)
Same vintage, different dosage and above all, refinement: 5 years on the lees, disgorged 12 years ago. Everything changes, but absolutely everything. Imagine slices of quince cooked in vinegar, lemon zest, black pepper; on the palate, it has a spicy and tasty dimension. Beautiful and unpredictable, we return three or four times to the glass: there's also a delicate bitter note of great charm. Wow. We think back to all those cuvées popped well before we could fully tell who they are: namely the majority.
Perlé Rosé 2004 (disgorged in 2021)
Extended aging on the lees, less brilliant evolution. The wine is still intact but the profile is rather linear and slender. Aromas of hazelnut, dried flowers, and licorice. It has energy and a creamy texture, but it closes slightly compressed on toasted almond and pomegranate tones.
Giulio Ferrari Limited Edition 2002 (disgorged in 2021)
Click. Before jotting down a couple of notes, we raise a colorful expression. Everything is in perfect harmony: the smoky note reminiscent of peat, the fatty note of mountain butter, strawberry tree honey, white truffle, hazelnut. A breath of iodine pushes it forward and then calms down. Like in certain Islay Whiskies. The palate is overwhelming, slow at first and then impetuous, still very fresh and sharp: a world to be sipped slowly. Pure mountain beauty in one of the coldest vintages of recent decades. Nationally unmatched, internationally it competes with all.
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