The level of Italian dining in Germany has enormous room for improvement. In our travels, we encountered a place that goes the extra mile, interpreting Italian cuisine with rare rigour: Gallo Nero in Hamburg. The Guardian of Tradition award of the Top Italian Restaurants guide goes to Corrado Falco, owner of the restaurant opened in 1999. Let's start with his cellar (Tre Bottiglie in the guide), which is simply extraordinary for the depth of vintages and formats, for variety, and exploration. Bottles from the very small producer in Pantelleria, Salvatore Ferrandes, can be found alongside stunning verticals of Bruno Giacosa or Masseto.
The common thread between cellar and kitchen is Sicily, Corrado's land of origin, explored with authentic recipes, yet there's also room for other dishes from the classic Italian repertoire. Just seeing the extra virgin olive oil on the tables makes it clear that serious work is being done here, just like the tomatoes used, from Saverio Petrilli. Diners here is surrounded by wine bottles, pampered by polite and competent service.
A true empire of Italian taste.
The eggplant Parmigiana won us over for its authenticity and flavour; for a moment, we were revived from many faded versions. Rigatoni alla Norma is a classic, but even a simple sea bass with Trapani sea salt or a North Sea sole elucidates the restaurant's philosophy. The prices are absolutely in line with the quality offered, and even from the cellar, great bottles are uncorked with markups lower than restaurants of equivalent standards. The service is polished, warm, and professional. Adjacent to the restaurant, there is also a gastronomy spot where one can have a quick snack or purchase products to take away: cheeses, capers, spices, artisanal pasta. A true empire of Italian taste in Germany.