Ancestral wines are back in fashion. Sparkling, fresh, pleasant, and easy to drink, these wines are perfect for carefree and convivial moments, often offering delicious and tantalizing sips. Although re-fermentation is not always handled impeccably. This method involves bottling the wine when the must is still partially fermented, with a percentage of residual sugars not yet converted into alcohol by the yeast. With the arrival of spring, a second spontaneous fermentation in the bottle creates lively carbonation. There is no final disgorgement, resulting in wines that often have pronounced yeast notes.
Ancestral wines with great value for money
Here is a small but significant selection of labels to try from Emilia, Tuscany, and Basilicata that we reviewed in Berebene 2024 and which you can find in wine shops and online stores for less than 20 euros.
Popnat 2022 - Fabbrica Pienza
Score: 88/100
Popnat '22. This delightful sparkling wine from Sangiovese grapes is clearly inspired by Pét-Nat ("pétillant naturel"), where fermentation begins in the tank and finishes in the bottle without disgorgement. Its aromas evoke strawberry and pomegranate, leading to a juicy and flavorful sip. Fabbrica is the name of the winery founded by Swiss couple Tonie and Philippe Bertherat near Pienza, which boasts 35 hectares of organic vineyards.
Ancestrale Rosé 2021 - Artekeke
Score: 90/100
Aglianico. An original and joyful interpretation of Aglianico in the Vulture region. This is a bottle-fermented wine according to the ancestral method, produced without added sulfur dioxide. The aromas are rustic, with fresh bread and pomegranate, and a lovely hint of wild herbs. The palate is vigorous, pleasantly rustic, and delicious, with crisp, taut red fruit enlivened by bright, pointed acidity. What a drink!
Extra Brut Metodo Ancestrale 2019 - Terraquilia
Score: 87/100
Terraquilia Extra Brut 2019. Terraquilia is a unique company specializing for years in the production of ancestral method sparkling wines from varieties grown at significant altitudes (over 400 meters). Located in the hills above Modena, in an area of undeniable natural beauty, the Extra Brut 2019 smells of bread crust, white flowers, and lemon zest. The palate is fresh and dynamic, with perfectly balanced carbonation and a clean, flavorful finish.
Brumoso Vermentino Frizzante Ancestrale 2022 - Terre dell’Etruria
Score: 89/100
Vermentino Ancestrale Brumoso '22. Terre dell'Etruria is a small cooperative that is increasingly convincing, as it perfectly captures the typological essence of its production without resorting to "competition wines" at all costs. A good example is the Vermentino Ancestrale Brumoso '22, a wine of absolute pleasure in its simplicity. The aromas are immediately citrusy, and on the palate, the sip is so enjoyable it calls for another.
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