There are places that are unforgettable, ones you only stumble upon a few times in your life. Dai Muagetti is one such place, offering a taste of paradise. From Camogli, you’ll need to drive about 9 km up to San Rocco, a small village with just over 200 residents that already hints at the beauty to come. Finding parking, especially during peak season, might be the hardest part, but once you’ve left your car, just head to the church square and take in the view. From here, pedestrian trails begin, and the idea is to head towards Punta Chiappa, taking Via Mortola. A few steps into the trail, and your destination appears.
Dai Muagetti
The word "müagetti" in the Ligurian dialect refers to the ancient dry-stone walls that dot the landscape and enable terraced farming in this narrow strip of land between mountains and the Mediterranean. The bar—though it’s almost too modest a term—is housed in a cave hand-carved into the mountain rock by the residents of San Rocco during World War II to shelter from bombings. Fortunately, its purpose changed in 1967, and today the cave hosts a bar counter and kitchen. The setting is evocative, but the real spectacle lies in front of you: an incredible view plunging down to the sea, with Punta Chiappa and the San Fruttuoso Abbey to the left, and Golfo Paradiso stretching from Genoa to Capo Mele to the right.
Serving coffee, snacks, and aperitifs, the bar is open from afternoon to evening (and some mornings on weekends) from March to December. With increased tourism, it’s advisable to book by phone. On stormy days, it’s not worth opening, as the bar is outdoors, with tables set on stone steps or overlooking the railing. The menu is simple, with nods to local traditions: options range from capponada camoglina (with tuna and mosciame) to beef tartare, and even salmon or vegetarian kebabs with feta. The cocktails are well-made, with a wide selection including classics, signature drinks, and non-alcoholic options, plus a good range of spirits like gin, rum, and whisky. However, the wine list is somewhat limited and a bit ordinary—but with a view this expansive, who’s complaining?
The trails
Once refreshed, you can continue your journey—this is practically the gateway to Monte di Portofino. Rich Mediterranean vegetation, the sound of cicadas and crickets, and sudden panoramic views of the sea accompany an unforgettable walk, dotted with the Punta Chiappa batteries, defensive military positions built by the Royal Italian Army in the 1930s. When you return, you’ll be just in time for an aperitif, with only the most beautiful sunset you’ll ever witness in front of you.
Dai Muagetti - Via Mortola, 2 – San Rocco, Camogli - www.instagram.com/daimuagetti/
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