From the Metropolitan Pavilion to the Top Italian Restaurant: Gambero Rosso showcases Italian wine in New York

Around two hundred wineries and a large crowd of industry professionals, importers, buyers, and journalists came together. New York once again confirmed its appreciation for Italian wine and its eagerness to explore a land that, while distant, remains highly attractive through its terroirs and the stories of the men and women behind the wines. The event on 4 March at the Metropolitan Pavilion, in Manhattan’s vibrant Chelsea district, reaffirmed the Big Apple's keen, curious, and passionate interest in the Italian wine industry. It also solidified the bold move made by Gambero Rosso in the 1990s to choose New York as the gateway for bringing the complex and extraordinary diversity of Italian wine beyond national borders.

Wine to drink, wine to tell

On one side, a large space dedicated to tastings and meetings with producers; on the other, two masterclasses—one organised in collaboration with Unione Italiana Vini and the other with the Lombardy Region and its consortia. The event was also attended by the Consul General of Italy in New York, Fabrizio Di Michele, and Lombardy’s Regional Minister for Agriculture, Food Sovereignty, and Forests, Alessandro Beduschi, underscoring the importance of a region that, from a wine perspective, is often underappreciated despite its incredible variety of production and grape varieties. From Lake Garda to Oltrepò Pavese, all the way to Lambrusco Mantovano, passing through San Martino della Battaglia, Lombardy stands out as a truly unique case. For example, it is home to Italy’s smallest DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita), Moscato di Scanzo—a red-berried Moscato made from an indigenous grape grown on just 31 hectares of land.

The masterclass, led by Giuseppe Carrus and featuring Juri Pagani (Consorzio Valtènesi) and Riccardo Binda (Consorzio Oltrepò Pavese), thrilled participants, who had the opportunity to get to know the Tre Bicchieri (Three Glasses) award-winning wineries up close. Meanwhile, the institutional representatives also expressed great satisfaction.

"We came to New York to excite a knowledgeable audience—buyers, professionals from the wine world—who were able to appreciate our wines and the uniqueness of our productions. There was so much enthusiasm, and above all, many people promised to come, and in some cases return, for the 2026 Milan-Cortina Olympics to experience Lombardy firsthand," said Minister Beduschi at the end of the event.

Opportunities and expectations strengthening connections

Such promises and expectations continue to fuel the American passion for Italian food and wine, despite the uncertainties brought on by the current political and economic climate, as well as shifting consumption trends. While challenges lie ahead, there is still reason for cautious optimism about the future. There is no denying some concerns, particularly regarding the 25% tariffs announced by the Trump administration, which could cost the Italian wine sector nearly €1 billion in lost exports. However, the data from the second half of 2024 indicates a 4.5% increase in Italian wine imports compared to the previous year, with Italy still maintaining its position as the number one supplier to the U.S. in terms of volume.

After all, we are in gourmet New York—a city as effervescent in its food and wine curiosity as the crisp early March air that fills its streets. New York loves fine wine and good food, and it would be hypocritical to deny that this is a place where one can sample some of the world’s best international cuisines—including, of course, Italian. The days when Italian dining abroad was often a poor imitation, filled with clichés and subpar quality, are long gone. Today, things are taken seriously, and it is often easier to find a traditional trattoria here in the Big Apple that does things properly than in some of Italy’s own major cities.

Celebrating excellence: the Top Italian Restaurant awards

For this reason, the Gambero Rosso event also served as the perfect occasion to celebrate, as it does every year, the much-anticipated Top Italian Restaurant awards. Thirty establishments—including restaurants, pizzerias, and wine bars—spread across New York City and the state of New York were recognised for their excellence. The quality here is exceptionally high, as demonstrated by the many stories of Italian entrepreneurs who have invested everything in a city that, while setting trends, also demands extraordinary effort and innovation—an approach that has led to outstanding results.

Take Alberto Ghezzi, owner of Lucciola in the Upper West Side, which entered the Gambero Rosso Guide this year with Due Forchette (Two Forks). After the Covid pandemic, he aimed even higher, choosing to focus on wine despite the clear decline in consumption. This decision earned him the Villa Sandi - Best Contemporary Wine List award.

"We went from having around sixty labels to 1,500 on our wine list. We believed in it so much that we even created a wine club, which now has 250 restaurant clients. We organise many events with producers because, in my opinion, engaging wine enthusiasts is essential to overcoming the crisis that many are beginning to feel," Ghezzi explained.

Thomas Christoph, head of a consulting firm that specialises in wine, shares this view:

"New York is a city that must absorb trends quickly and put them into practice. In many restaurants and bistros, it's now common to see an entire page dedicated to non-alcoholic wines, as well as a variety of products beyond wine. But this does not affect venues that have always taken wine seriously. There is great attention to detail, highly skilled sommeliers, the right glassware, correct serving temperatures, and proper wine storage. These new trends do not impact such places; if anything, they might hurt venues where wine is not treated as it should be."

Mattia Molinterni, who, along with Alessandro Pepe, launched the first international venture of Rome’s Roscioli here in New York, agrees:

"Since we started in 2023, things have been going very well, and this is certainly because we have brought to the U.S. the same values that guide us in Italy."

Roscioli earned the Tre Bottiglie (Three Bottles) award for its vibrant and engaging wine list, which includes not only timeless classics but also an array of unexpected labels. Its constantly changing by-the-glass selection ensures that New Yorkers always have the perfect wines to enjoy in a professional yet relaxed setting—one that naturally inspires raising a glass in celebration.

This is the way forward.