Great fish and meat dishes at the must-visit restaurant just a step away from Fiumicino Airport

The Duca referenced in the name is Sforza Cesarini, who once owned much of the Fiumicino area, including trees, ruins, and farmhouses—like this one, just a stone's throw from Lake Trajan. This 1930s building has witnessed many different stories and adventures under its roof, but at a certain point, it was left behind, somewhat forgotten. That was until Rosario Malapena and Cristina Sebastiani noticed it and saw its potential.

Rosario is one of the most well-known names in the local restaurant scene. For years, he led Albos, a renowned beach club and restaurant in Fregene, where he curated a refined, elegant, and precise dining experience centred on exceptional ingredients. This is no coincidence for someone like him—an expert in selecting top-quality seafood and a seasoned buyer at Fiumicino’s fish auction.

After 15 years in Fregene, he moved to Focene, one of the five coastal villages in the Fiumicino municipality. Though brief, this experience proved the loyalty of his clientele, who followed him there and soon adjusted their sat-navs to reach him at his new location—a restaurant surrounded by greenery near Fiumicino Airport, a major international hub with over 40 million passengers per year, just a 10-minute drive away.

This proximity is a major advantage for those seeking a meal before or after a journey. Even more so considering that, in addition to the restaurant, there is also an inn with rooms (with a large car park and a shuttle service for those who need it). Currently, there are only three rooms, but soon, there will be around twenty. It is the closest hotel to the airport (excluding the Hilton), offering a rustic style and a countryside farmhouse atmosphere, complete with a fireplace in the main dining room and a large cow statue marking the entrance to the courtyard farmhouse, otherwise hidden from the road.

Entroterra: a cuisine of land and sea

For this very reason, Rosario has made an exception to his seafood-focused cuisine, offering a broader menu at the restaurant. He has fittingly named it "Entroterra" (meaning "Inland") to highlight this new venture, which is further from the sea but not too far.

The menu follows two distinct paths:

• Meat dishes featuring cuts from Macelleria Cerulli
• Seafood dishes, ranging from simple classics like amatriciana, entrecôte, and pasta with lupini clams to creative interpretations, such as smoked cerina, rosemary-infused potato, Roman-style artichoke, and ‘nduja oil.

At some point, Alessandro Lambiase joined Rosario in the kitchen, bringing 13 years of experience working alongside Marco Claroni, another renowned chef from Fiumicino and the owner of Osteria dell’Orologio—a local institution famous for seafood appetisers, which Rosario also appreciates. Entroterra offers a seafood appetiser tasting, featuring both cooked and raw dishes, showcasing the quality and versatility of the ingredients.

What’s on the Menu at Entroterra

Diners can choose from:

• Meatballs (either classic beef or tuna boiled meatballs)
• Steamed mussels or Onano lentils with luganega sausage
• Fried anchovies or Cantabrian and Catalina anchovies with butter, served like caviar
• A selection of oysters, paired with cold cuts (jamón serrano, culatello, wild prosciutto) and cheeses—perfect for cocktails or wine pairing.

The wine cellar is still growing but already exceeds expectations for a country farmhouse, featuring Selosse, Egly-Ouriet, Puligny-Montrachet, and a stellar selection of Italian wines. Rosario and Cristina’s wine lists have always been highly regarded, and this one is no exception.

Regular customers know what to expect—a tailor-made experience that evolves with their hunger and cravings. The menu serves as a starting point, but dishes adapt to individual guests. Rosario recalls how mountain eggs won over a now-loyal customer and how he always adjusts offerings for those who visit multiple times a week.

There’s no formality or desire to create a signature chef’s menu (though, in practice, one exists). Instead, the focus is on a homely atmosphere, with wholesome, precise, and adaptable dishes. Expect soups, seasonal vegetables, daily specials, and unexpected extras—like a pasta with chicory and capers, prepared on the spot for a guest who simply requested it.

For those who prefer a set menu, there are two tasting menus:

• Land (35€)
• Sea (40€)

For everyone else, just start a conversation—and let the experience unfold.

Rosario ala Tenuta del Duca - Fiumicino (RM) - via Carlo del Prete snc - 366 2386289 - Facebook