In Calabria, a pizzaiolo creates pizza with collagen

Starting with the basics: collagen, beyond being the most abundant protein in the human body, is the primary structural extracellular protein found in the connective and bone tissues of nearly all animals. Often associated with cosmetics and nutrition due to the booming supplement market, collagen is also a prized element in haute cuisine.

The use of collagen in cooking

Traditional cuisines, such as the Basque approach to cod’s gelatinous properties in pil pil sauce, have long valued collagen. Many renowned chefs have worked for years on extracting collagen from animal skins and bones. For example, Gianfranco Pascucci achieves the superb texture of his fish soup using collagen from fish, while Igles Corelli and Antonino Cannavacciuolo often craft emulsions and "mayonnaises" by leveraging the collagen richness of squid and octopus. On the land-based side, classical cuisine offers the example of fondo bruno, a sauce relying on collagen extracted from beef bones to lend structure, body, and flavor to any dish. The core idea is to use collagen as an emulsifier or stabilizer—proteins extracted through cooking.

Collagen in leavened dough

Research into using animal collagen in bread-making began years ago with experiments by Gabriele Bonci of Panificio Bonci in Rome. Bonci explored using fats extracted from animals in baked goods and pastries. Now, Roberto Davanzo of Bob Alchimia a Spicchi in Montepaone, Calabria, takes this concept further. He incorporates collagen directly into pizza dough, enhancing its texture and flavor by using animal skin to create a crispy, animal-based crust for his round pizzas.

Metamorphosis by Bob Alchimia a Spicchi

Named Metamorphosis, this experimental project includes steps both inside and outside the dough. Collagen, extracted from chicken or fish skin, enriches the pizza dough, improving its structure and tenderness. Separately, the skin is defatted, pressure-cooked, marinated overnight, and placed on the dough during fermentation. After baking, this process yields an unexpected texture, a fusion of skin and base resulting in distinct crispiness.

Currently, Metamorphosis features in Bob Alchimia a Spicchi’s menu as the “Half Pizza Half Chicken,” topped with slow-cooked chicken, smoked Riggitano pepper, and vinegar gel. Future iterations will include fish.

This new project integrates seamlessly into Davanzo’s broader work on leavened creations, involving various creative experiments with doughs, cooking techniques, and toppings. Opened in 2016 in Montepaone with Anna Rotella, Bob Alchimia a Spicchi has earned Tre Spicchi (Three Slices) in the Pizzerie d’Italia 2025 guide by Gambero Rosso and a special award for Best Dining Service. Despite its relatively recent inception, the pizzeria has made remarkable strides, driving forward Calabria’s evolving culinary scene and building networks through Bob Fest, a charity festival launched in 2021 that has since gained widespread acclaim.