In Miami, a Restaurant Hired a Pair of Grandparents to Hand-Make Tortellini: The Story of Torno Subito

You see him moving from one side of the Ocean to the other, Massimo Bottura, caught up in events and openings that follow one another at a rapid pace, always driven by a passion for a type of cuisine rooted in raw materials and the territory. This philosophy has been summed up in an impactful phrase: Slow Food, Fast Cars. And if the national treasure that is Massimo can be one and a hundred thousand, it is also thanks to his collaborators, protégés who go on to become his ambassadors worldwide—whether just a step away from the Francescana or on the other side of the globe. This was the case for Jessica Rosval at Casa Maria Luigia and also for Bernardo Paladini, the talented chef of Torno Subito in Miami.

Having been with the Francescana for about ten years, Paladini oversaw the opening of Torno Subito in Dubai in 2018—"incredible years both for the opportunity to experience something like that and because, for the first time, I had the chance to face myself and the responsibility of carrying Massimo's name on my shoulders." Then, after achieving a Michelin star (in the first edition of the Rossa in Dubai), he moved across the ocean to open Torno Subito Miami, bringing to the United States the concept inspired by the dolce vita of the Riviera Romagnola, with its colourful and light-hearted imagery as told by Fellini.

Three months after its opening, how is it going? We asked the chef.

What’s the restaurant scene like in Miami?

We’ve been visiting Miami for years with Massimo for various events. My first time here was nine years ago, and the city has grown immensely in terms of dining options. A decade ago, it wasn’t a gastronomic destination, but now it certainly is.

Which part of Miami are you based in?

Not South Beach, but Downtown, where we’re on the rooftop of a beautiful 1930s building on Flagler Street, right next to the Olympia Theater. We’re part of a project aimed at restoring Downtown to its former glory. Many still associate Miami with South Beach, but there’s much more to it. Even without centuries of history, the city has exploded in growth.

Why has Miami experienced such a boom?

During COVID, it was one of the few open cities, and its low tax rates have had a huge impact. Many renowned chefs and young entrepreneurs have chosen to open restaurants here because the business model is easier to manage compared to Italy.

Is there much competition?

Yes, but the city has a high per capita income and a large number of tourists. Miami offers a high quality of life and is enjoying a period of prosperity. I’m privileged to be part of this moment.

How has Torno Subito been received?

Drawing from the Dubai experience, I knew we wouldn’t start at full capacity on day one. We opened on August 21, during the off-season, which allowed us to gradually increase the number of covers to 90. Compared to Dubai, our tasting menu volumes here are about 40% higher, letting us showcase a wide range of signature dishes.

Who are your customers?

We get tourists, but my goal is to work mainly with locals. Some clients have already visited Osteria Francescana or Casa Maria Luigia, and their familiarity makes things easier.

What’s unique about the menu?

Our goal is Italian cuisine with local products. For example, we’ve adapted the Roman cacio e pepe by adding a citrusy twist using orange peel from northern Florida, Key lime, and lemons from Miami, cooked in a sweet-salty syrup. This approach enhances the dish with contrasting aromatic and savory notes.

How do you incorporate sustainability into Italian cuisine?

Traditionally, Italian restaurants abroad emphasized importing ingredients from Italy, but sustainability challenges that. While we import olive oil, parmesan, and balsamic vinegar, we source as much as possible locally. For example, Capri Organic, run by three Molisan brothers, produces mozzarella and ricotta just miles from the restaurant. We also collaborate with Empowerment Farm, where individuals with disabilities grow our vegetables, and local herb farms.

What’s the story behind the tortellini?

Our tortellini in parmesan cream, a staple at Bottura’s restaurants, are a highlight. We produce nearly 4 kg daily, about 40 servings. The secret? Two 75-year-old grandparents, Tina and Giovanni, originally from Naples, who moved to Florida years ago and joined our team. They’re invaluable in making fresh pasta, bread, and pastry bases.

How do they fit into the kitchen dynamic?

In a team of 27, their presence provides balance. Their meticulous approach complements the energy of younger team members. For Tina and Giovanni, this unexpected second career fills them with pride.

What about beverages?

Miami has embraced non-alcoholic drinks, so we offer mocktails, though wine remains a focus. We’ve partnered with Dante, a top NYC cocktail bar, to craft a menu inspired by Torno Subito. On the wine side, our list includes 200 labels, 85% of which are Italian, with a particular emphasis on Emilia Romagna’s small producers.

Torno Subito Miami reflects a contemporary dining model: offering tasting menus, business lunches, and vibrant brunches, all with an approachable fine dining ethos.