In Monferrato, a fine red wine that risked oblivion is produced. Here’s what it is and the bottles with the best value for money

Have you ever heard of aromatic grape varieties? These are grapes rich in terpenes, substances found in the skin that give characteristic aromas to the fruit, which then blend with those developed during fermentation. Even the least experienced wine lovers can easily recognise a wine made from Muscat or Gewürztraminer grapes, as their aromas are very distinctive and difficult to confuse with those of other varieties.

In addition to aromatic grapes, there are also so-called semi-aromatic varieties. The name speaks for itself: these also contain terpenes, though in smaller quantities than fully aromatic varieties, yet their olfactory identity remains well expressed and identifiable. One such grape is Ruché.

Ruché: origins and characteristics of the grape

Piedmont is the only region in Italy where Ruché is cultivated. But zooming in on the regional vineyard, we must focus on the hills around Castagnole Monferrato; more sporadically, it also appears in vineyards in the Alessandria province. Like many grape varieties, its origins are lost in the mists of history. Regarding its name, some believe it derives from "roncet," a viral disease to which this variety is more resistant than other regional grapes.

Other scholars, however, suggest it may have originated in Burgundy and acclimatised in Piedmont around the 18th century, though evidence of this journey is rather scarce. What is certain is that the modern revival of this grape is credited to a priest, Don Giacomo Cauda: it was he who, in the 1960s, rediscovered this nearly abandoned variety, saving it from oblivion.

The grape is the focus of a dedicated denomination, Ruché di Castagnole Monferrato, established in 1987 and elevated to DOCG status in 2010. Its official recognition certainly encouraged producers to invest in a little-known and previously under-cultivated grape. Earlier, we mentioned aromatic identity: Ruché’s profile is composed of floral and fruity fragrances reminiscent of roses and ripe wild strawberries, enhanced by intriguing spicy notes.

The best value Ruché wines

If we’ve sparked your curiosity, here is a selection of Ruché wines that we found to offer the best quality-price ratio, featured in Gambero Rosso's Berebene 2025 and Vini d'Italia 2025 guides.

Ruché di Castagnole M.to 'Na Vota '23 - Cantine Sant'Agata

Ruché di Castagnole Monferrato 'Na Vota '23 offers aromas of rose and plum, with a notable structure, dense and full-bodied, still marked by its tannic note but with a long and balanced finish.

Cantine Sant’Agata, owned by the Cavallero family since the early 20th century, is one of the most important producers of Ruché-based wines, offering several versions. Their vineyards are spread across various appellation zones, from Portacomaro to Gavi to Monforte d’Alba, producing wines with Barbera, Cortese, and Nebbiolo in a modern style with excellent technical clarity.

Ruché di Castagnole M.to Laccento '23 - Montalbera

Ruché di Castagnole Monferrato Laccento '23 presents an expansive and complex nose, with floral notes, plum, and liquorice, while the palate is structured, with an elegant tannin, full-bodied, smooth, and long-lasting.

The Morando family of Montalbera, now in its third generation of winemakers, has always been dedicated to a little-known yet distinctive Piedmontese variety: Ruché. This semi-aromatic red finds an excellent terroir in the Castiglione area, expressed in three different versions. More than half of the Ruché produced in the Castagnole Monferrato appellation belongs to this estate, which has long championed the variety. The estate also cultivates Moscato, Barbera, Chardonnay, Viognier, and Grignolino.

Ruché di Castagnole Monferrato Sant'Eufemia '23 - Ferraris Agricola

Ruché di Castagnole Monferrato Sant’Eufemia '23 displays floral and red fruit notes on the nose, while the palate is well-balanced, with delicate tannins, good body, and a long, pleasant finish.

Ferraris Agricola has a history intertwined with the USA. It was the savings of the founder’s great-grandfather Luigi, who emigrated to America, that started the winery, and more recently, Californian winemaker Randall Grahm played a key role in developing their Ruché line. However, it was Luigi Ferraris, his namesake grandson, who in 1999 completely renovated the old winery, breathing new life into a century-old tradition.

Ruché di Castagnole Monferrato Xenio '23 - Fabrizia Caldera

Xenio '23 features floral and wild red berry aromas, with a palate that is highly enjoyable, smooth, and immediate.

Four generations have shaped the history of Fabrizia Caldera, whose winery is based in Portacomaro Stazione, a few kilometres from Asti. Today, Fabrizia Caldera, together with her husband Roberto and their son Fabio, upholds a philosophy of terroir and authenticity, working primarily with native grape varieties that reflect the characteristics of their origin. The estate produces wines from Barbera, Moscato, Cortese, and Grignolino, with a particular focus on Ruché.

Ruché di Castagnole M.to San Pietro Realto '23 - Bersano

The Ruché di Castagnole Monferrato San Pietro Realto '23 is well-crafted, offering aromas of red berries, rose, and plum, with a structured yet supple palate.

Bersano, a key player in the Asti wine scene and beyond, has been owned by the Massimelli and Soave families for 30 years. It operates across eleven estates in Asti, Alto Monferrato, and the Langhe, producing a wide range of wines that highlight the best expressions of each terroir.

Ruché di Castagnole M.to Viarì '23 - Accornero Giulio e Figli

Ruché di Castagnole Monferrato Viarì '23 from the Accornero family is another excellent choice. The family has a winemaking tradition spanning more than a century, but it was in 1957 that Giulio Accornero took the significant step of vinifying their own grapes. Today, his sons Ermanno and Massimo continue the legacy, pursuing excellence and respecting their land, characterised by calcareous-marl soils that lend the wines richness and ageing potential.

Ruché di Castagnole M.to Caresana '23 - Pierfrancesco Gatto

Ruché di Castagnole Monferrato Caresana '23 showcases firm tannins, with a rich texture and enjoyable drinkability. Pierfrancesco Gatto, who has managed the winery for over 30 years, represents a long-standing winemaking family that stays true to its roots. Despite the passage of time and inevitable changes, their core values remain steadfast: terroir and tradition. The estate cultivates Barbera, Ruché, and Grignolino, producing wines that faithfully reflect the diverse terroirs of Castagnole Monferrato and Montemagno.