For those who don’t know, the guéridon service is a treat for nostalgics, featuring a fascinating dining ritual also known as "Russian service." It goes like this: the waiter presents the covered dish, places it on the guéridon (a side table) next to the diners, lifts the cloche to reveal the dish, then places it on a warmer and portions the food onto plates. This ritual is a display of skill and ancient, theatrical gestures that are almost extinct. We said "almost," because you can still witness it in some places. For example, at Santo Bevitore in Albergo Corona, Novi Ligure, in the Alessandria region.
The restaurant famous for "zuppa inglese"
We are in the land of the famous chocolate and cycling legends such as Costante Girardengo and Fausto Coppi. A visit to the museum dedicated to them and, in general, to cycling and the history of the bicycle is a must. This is a land more trodden by pedals than by feet, despite being within a few kilometres of the vineyards of Gavi and, further northeast, those of Timorasso, the archaeological area of Libarna, and the Serravalle Scrivia outlet. While not historically famous for its gastronomy, Novi now boasts a new establishment that has been housed for a few years in the ancient Hotel Corona, an institution with a tradition of over a century that has hosted the Grande Torino football team, as well as Bartali and Coppi, when, for well-known reasons, he didn't go all the way home. Even Queen Margherita visited here. The new establishment is called Santo Bevitore. Gianluca Spinola, the current manager of the hotel, tells us, "The old horse-changing station was opened at the end of the 19th century as a hospitality structure, and since then it has been owned by the Calligaris family. Between the 1970s and 1980s, it thrived due to its strategic position between Milan, Turin, and Genoa." The current goal is to revive those past glories while evolving to meet modern tastes and times. After several management changes, Spinola, who arrived about five years ago, brought with him a lot of enthusiasm and the name of the old trattoria he opened over twenty years ago in the city centre.
At Santo Bevitore in Novi Ligure: Past atmospheres and great wines
Only the name remains, as now the approach is more gourmet and suited to hotel guests. On the ground floor, there is a large hall and, to the left, the fireplace room, or the Queen’s Room if you prefer. Outside, there is a garden and outdoor seating for dining al fresco in the warmer months. The small room still features historical furnishings, while the large room combines older architecture with modern tables and setups, including a large refrigerated showcase that spans an entire wall and a glass-enclosed wine cellar housing prestigious labels requiring precise environmental conditions. An impressive enological resource, well-selected, well-served, and well-explained.
What to eat at Santo Bevitore: The legendary "pollo al guéridon"
Currently, Thomas Papa, who spent years as a sous-chef at La Gallina in Monterotondo before becoming its chef, leads the kitchen. Here, he offers a wide-ranging cuisine that is not standardised, drawing from the local area but with personality and original touches. Thus, “tonnato” and “battuta” coexist with salt cod fritters and Santo Spirito cuttlefish, the "precious" roasted veal tongue with asparagus and lovage, agnolotti del plin and rabaton, as well as rice, potatoes, mussels, and pepper, and the straightforward and clear tripe with mantis shrimp and Parmesan.
And then, back to the main attraction: the Corona's "pollo ficatum," prepared with an array of supports, tools, blades, clay pots, dishes, and cutlery for the guéridon service, a simple or fully-equipped side table, whether old-fashioned or high-tech. In the grand dining rooms of the past, the maitre d' and the various staff members handled the portioning, presentation, and final touches of the dish before serving it to the diners according to strict conventions. Here, adapting to modern times and the social evolution of tastes and habits, a touch of history is maintained that might, if it became more widespread, benefit the reevaluation of the dining room to its rightful rank. Precise cuts, well-practised movements, breasts, thighs, drumsticks, and wings arranged “in two rows” make their way onto plates, adorned with vegetables carefully arranged both for aesthetic appeal and in the serving dish. Another rarity in these parts is the "zuppa inglese," which at Santo Bevitore is remarkable. All just a spectacle? Not at all.
Santo Bevitore - Novi Ligure (AL) - corso Romualdo Marenco, 11 - 0143 1500530 - ristorantealbergocorona.it
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