In Ostia, a contemporary trattoria opens with the dream of seeing the Roman coastline revive

Ostia, the Roman seaside, is experiencing a small renaissance: now it's the turn of La Parentesi, a contemporary trattoria in the heart of the area, opened by three partners with the desire to showcase the full potential of the outskirts. Recently, even Federico Iavicoli chose this area, closing his restaurant in Ostiense in favor of Ostia, where he opened La Terrazza del Marchese.

La Parentesi, contemporary trattoria in Ostia

Even specialty coffee has arrived on the coast, evidence that something is really happening. La Parentesi partly shares the philosophy of traditional Roman cuisine. "We mainly work with humble cuts, lots of offal, but we carefully select and prepare each element," says Andrea Donati, one of the partners of the establishment. "We follow the seasons, and the menu changes every 2/3 months."

Alongside him are his brother Marco, "in the kitchen for over 20 years," and Valerio Raucci. Andrea already manages an Irish pub in Axa (O'Connell), and this is their first venture in Ostia. "For us, it's a challenge. It's always said that you eat poorly in Ostia, but things are changing. There are many valid establishments. It's time to bring this location back to its former glory."

Fresh dishes, biodynamic wines, and tapas

Among the menu offerings are grilled mackerel with buffalo yogurt and lettuce; boiled meatballs with green sauce; butter fettuccine with anchovies and pink shrimp. "We also always have vegetarian options," such as fennel velouté with ginger and curry or yellow lentil hummus, grilled romanesco broccoli, and fermented cabbage. For drinks, there's a wine list with around 50 references. "We mainly work with organic and biodynamic wines, but we also have conventional wines and a few natural bottles." In addition, there are cocktails, also designed for the aperitivo. "We have a tapas formula for €15."

The establishment opened on March 28, 2024. Attendance at restaurants in Ostia varies greatly depending on the weather, with sunny days bringing Romans to the beach. "In the past, there was a lot of emphasis on quantity, but we want Ostia to be perceived differently, not just as a beach destination but as a place to visit all year round." Hence the name, "we hope it will be a new parenthesis in the neighborhood's dining scene."

La Parentesi – Roma – via Claudio, 34 - instagram.com