In the land of rice and frogs, Piedmont shares with other rice-growing regions of the Po Valley a humble origin story (as Mario Soldati recounted in Journey to the Po Valley), and like much of traditional folk cuisine, this dish has become rare and refined: ris e ran, or frog risotto, known to Pellegrino Artusi as risotto coi ranocchi. Artusi advised blanching the frog meat in hot water and then cooling it in fresh water to tenderize it.
Frogs in butter, garlic chantilly, Zizania rice croquette - Villa Crespi (Orta San Giulio, NO)
The creative pairing of rice and frogs
Although Vercelli, with its rice production, is immediately recognised as the dish’s origin, frog risotto is deeply rooted in the provinces of Novara, Biella, and Alessandria as well. So embedded is it in Piedmontese culture that frog risotto now features on menus of creative establishments, either as reimagined versions or prepared traditionally. At the celebrated Villa Crespi (awarded Tre Forchette in Ristoranti d’Italia), the dish is somewhat iconic. Antonino Cannavacciuolo recently offered a personal twist, presenting it as an “arancino” with frog legs in butter, garlic chantilly, and rice croquettes. Cannavacciuolo, originally from Campania, has showcased frog risotto in his television appearances, making it a symbol of his deep connection with Lake Orta.
Where to enjoy frog risotto
Pinocchio - Borgomanero (NO)
Rising from the ashes (an early 2024 fire severely damaged it), the Bertinotti family restaurant reopened at record speed by Easter. For over 60 years, it has been a culinary landmark for food lovers in Novara and beyond. The cuisine gives a creative twist to tradition, with signature dishes such as white chicken, butter-grilled snails, and frog risotto in broth. The wine cellar is rich in treasures.
Pinocchio - via G. Matteotti, 147 - Borgomanero (NO) - ristorantepinocchio.it
Cucine Nervi - Gattinara
Cucine Nervi - Gattinara (VC)
This atmospheric, prestigious restaurant belongs to Roberto Conterno, a Barolo producer. Young chef Matteo Piana continues with an approach of wide horizons, with attention to technique and aesthetics. Frog risotto has been on the menu since the beginning and is currently served with Sant’Andrea rice, frogs, squid ink, and crusco pepper.
Cucine Nervi - c.so Vercelli, 117 - Gattinara (VC) - cucinenervi.com
Da Manuela - Isola Sant'Antonio (AL)
Offering a diverse menu that embraces land, lake, river, and garden, Da Manuela respects Piedmontese and Lomellina traditions. Each dish, from goose breast to deboned frog risotto, reflects experience and quality ingredients. A cheese cart for connoisseurs, a well-stocked wine cellar, and a classic ambience complete the experience.
Da Manuela - via Po, 31 - Isola Sant'Antonio (AL) - ristorantedamanuela.it
Andrea Monesi, Locanda di Orta - Orta San Giulio (NO)
Born in 1991, Andrea Monesi heads a restaurant with the right ambitions that has grown over time, supported by its setting in a period building with a lakefront terrace, a finely curated atmosphere, attentive service, and, above all, a contemporary cuisine of unique character. His Riso e Rane dish (featured in the cover photo) is an homage to local tradition, with deboned fried frog legs served on white rice, accompanied by a sauce made from frog carcasses. An outdoor bistro is available in summer, with charming rooms for extended stays. A broad wine list rounds out the offering.
Andrea Monesi - Locanda di Orta - via Olina, 18 - Orta San Giulio (NO) - locandadiorta.com
Da Christian e Manuel at Hotel Cinzia - Vercelli
The Costardi brothers’ restaurant offers a monumental list of over twenty risottos, using a rice selection they developed. The menu includes inventive takes on local traditions, like Panissa or Riasia, which combines poultry stock, frog legs, and smoked eel. Located on the outskirts, the restaurant welcomes you into a bright space with well-spaced tables, hosted by Manuel Costardi and his mother (while Christian is now in Turin at Scat_to). Desserts are exceptional, with a wine list that includes some mature vintages.
Da Christian e Manuel dell'Hotel Cinzia - c.so Magenta, 71 - Vercelli - christianemanuel.it
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