In Rome, a gelateria opens with only jarred ice creams. Master gelato maker Stefano Ferrara bans cones and cups

"Gone are the days of traditional gelato." That's how we titled the editorial in the Gelaterie d'Italia 2024 guide. A deliberately provocative title to briefly express what is happening (or should be happening) in the gelato sector, namely a revolution led by artisans with the help of advanced technology and the support of experimentation. An attitude that Stefano Ferrara, and many others in Italy like him, have had for many years. We always talk about his scientific approach to raw materials; now, he completes the circle with his new project: Formaessenza, a unique gelateria where ice creams are only offered in jars, on sticks, or in other geometric shapes functional to taste.

Craftsmanship in the future

"It's not a farewell to tradition; with Formaessenza, I want to propose my current vision of gelato through new geometries and innovative techniques, maintaining tradition as a source of inspiration, and at the same time, evolving it and bringing it into the contemporary world in line with current nutritional needs," says the Roman gelato maker. The new laboratory and retail point open on Via Enrico Fermi, in the Marconi district of Rome (a district dear to us, the one of the "old" City of Taste). A space, designed by the FraMe architecture studio, which best expresses the combination of nature and technology – through an industrial style and material colors - it is indeed thanks to technology that Ferrara can focus on greater energy efficiency.

The ice creams available at Formaessenza

The project represents the culmination of studies, scientific rigor, and attention to health and well-being applied by Stefano Ferrara to gelato over the last decade. There are six product lines offered: semifreddo cakes from traditional to contemporary (from the "Quintessence" line), the line dedicated to the vegan world, ice creams with alcoholic components (from the "Spirited" line), the great classics, the historical flavors, and those most loved by customers, including Stragianduia with 60% Viterbo hazelnuts and only 40% liquids, a dark, creamy, delightful gelato yet balanced, thanks to a virtuous use of sugars, another "obsession" of the gelato maker who, to reduce their quantity, always uses only one sugar and never with a presence greater than 14%: we talked about his vision on low-calorie ice creams here, on the occasion of the launch of the Lec jarred gelato. In line with this "obsession" of his, there could be no missing ice creams totally devoid of added sugars ("Kelato"), studied in collaboration with Professor Flavio Di Gregorio, a medical and university researcher expert in food, who since 2004 has been dedicated to the study of nutrition.

No cones or cups, only jars and functional geometric shapes

No cones or cups, each line is available only in jars (made of recyclable plastic) in various weights, from single servings to family sizes, and in different shapes, from sticks to cookies, from quenelles to bon bons, up to geometric shapes studied and perfected "to enhance the sensory experience of individual flavors," explains Ferrara. "I felt the need to ferry my gelato towards new modes of consumption that did not confine the experience to taste alone and that allowed me to explore new frontiers where I could best express my research and creativity. A complex and ambitious challenge that I shared with my wife Alessandra Pianosi, who made a fundamental contribution to the project." A project that is still evolving: in June, a traditional gelateria will be inaugurated in via Cilea, also in Rome, complete with old and beloved "carapine."

Formaessenza – Roma - via Enrico Fermi, 102/104 - 06 5578634