In Turkey, the Michelin Guide Awards also recognize an Italian restaurant—but not with a Star

Dec 15 2024, 13:05
The new edition of the Michelin Guide Turkey has been released, reviewing restaurants in Istanbul, Izmir, and Muğla this year

Three cities, 132 establishments (77 in Istanbul, 24 in Izmir, and 31 in Muğla), including 32 new entries: the Michelin Guide, which reviews restaurants in Istanbul, Izmir, and Muğla, is a "tribute to dynamism and culinary diversity, where each region shines with its own personality and identity," a "true gastronomic mosaic," according to Gwendal Poullennec, the international director of the Michelin Guide.

Turkey's culinary soft power

Turkey, increasingly determined to occupy a prominent place on the world stage, is leveraging both hard and soft skills to achieve its goal. While the former sparks debates in geopolitical circles, the latter thrives in the less contentious realm of lifestyle. Cuisine is one of the major assets the country has focused on since it began establishing itself in the international fine dining scene just a few years ago. The arrival of the Michelin Guide is part of this effort, as we know, the result of a commercial agreement between Michelin and Turkish tourism offices, aware of the impact that Michelin-starred restaurants have on tourism and internationalization dynamics. It’s not just about this, though; the time is right to present a few restaurants that are now well-established in global rankings, names that are passed from mouth to mouth among globe-trotting foodies. One such restaurant is Turk by Fatih Tutak, which retains its two Michelin stars. Tutak’s background, having worked with some of the most important names in the international scene (from Paul Pairet in Turkey to Marina Bay Sands in Singapore, the three-star Nihonryori Ryugin in Tokyo, and Noma in Copenhagen), makes him one of the most interesting interpreters of modern Turkish cuisine. He is not alone, of course: Maksut Aşkar of Neolokal—one star—is another rising star. Just in Istanbul, there are also Araka, Arkestra, Mikla, Nicole, Sankai by Nagaya, and one of the two new Michelin-starred restaurants, Casa Lavanda. The other is in Izmir, Narımor, joining OD Urla, Teruar Urla, and Vino Locale. A Michelin star has also been confirmed for Kitchen By Osman Sezener and Maçakızı in Bodrum.

The two new Michelin Stars in Turkey

Located 40 kilometres from the centre of Istanbul, Casa Lavanda is an oasis of peace, both a hotel and restaurant, surrounded by 21,000 m² of gardens, orchards, and fruit groves that supply 80% of the fruits and vegetables used in the kitchen. Chef Emre Şen blends classic Turkish flavours with Mediterranean touches, particularly Italian ones, such as agnolotti filled with burrata and mascarpone. The cuisine at Casa Lavanda is authentic, seasonal, and closely connected to the region, which is why it has also been awarded a green star. Narımor in Izmir also features fusion, where chef Atilla Heilbronn incorporates his German roots into a unique blend with Turkish cuisine, using local products and contemporary techniques.

Green Stars

This year, six green stars were awarded, bringing the total to 10 restaurants recognized for sustainability. This confirms a gastronomic scene that is growing responsibly, proud of its roots, and deeply connected to the environment. In a vision where fine dining and environmental responsibility can coexist harmoniously and profitably, these establishments each represent a virtuous model for promoting the region, respecting natural resources, combating waste, and working closely with small producers. In addition to Casa Lavanda, the green stars also went to The BARN and Telezzüz in Istanbul, Mezra Yalıkavak (Bodrum), Agora Pansiyon (Milas, Muğla), and Asma Yaprağı in Izmir.

Special Awards

  • Sommelier Award: Yunus Öztürk of OD Urla (a Michelin-starred restaurant in Urla, near Izmir).
  • Service Award: The team at the Michelin-starred Nicole in Istanbul.
  • Young Chef Award: Serhat Doğramacı of Mezra Yalıkavak, a green-star restaurant in Bodrum, and the 2020-21 winner of MasterChef Turkey, who applies his fiery cooking style to Turkish cuisine.

Bib Gourmand

There are nine new entries in the Bib Gourmand category: four in Istanbul, two in Izmir province, and three in Muğla province. One of these, Arka Ristorante Pizzeria in Bodrum, offers Italian specialties, while the others focus mostly on local flavours, presented in traditional or contemporary ways. These include establishments like Aslında Meyhane (Urla, Izmir) and Asma Yaprağı (Alaçatı, Izmir), Beynel and Agora Pansiyon in Bodrum, and in Istanbul, Ali Ocakbaşı or Tatbak (an old, affordable institution in the city), Nazende Cadde (a place for conviviality and sharing), and Araf on the Asian side. Among the listed restaurants, there is also the Italian Oro by Alfredo Russo.

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