Liguria: the paradigm of heroic viticulture - Gambero Rosso's tastings

Sep 22 2024, 13:09

If there is one place that embodies heroic viticulture, it’s Liguria. Here, winemakers have little opportunity to use mechanical equipment or tractors, as nearly all the work is done by hand by true artisans of wine

The unique and captivating landscape of Liguria seems to mirror the distinctiveness of its wines. This narrow strip of land stretches for 350 kilometres, and as you travel through it, it’s impossible not to be enchanted by the steep slopes and high Apennine peaks rising from the sea.

Viticulture in Liguria: production challenges and the pursuit of quality

It is on these steep slopes that small patches of land are found, where traditional grape varieties are cultivated. If there is a region where the term "heroic viticulture" truly applies, it is here. Winemakers have limited access to mechanical tools, as the work is carried out almost entirely by hand, performed by skilled artisans. While the total vineyard area is modest—around 1,500 hectares—the quality is exceptionally high and spans a wide range of varieties and wine types.

The charm of Liguria’s unique terrain is reflected in its wines. Stretching over 350 kilometres, the region's steep hillsides and towering peaks emerging from the sea are as striking as the wines they produce.

The dominance of Vermentino

White wines make up 65% of production, largely thanks to certain grape varieties found in multiple areas. One of these is undoubtedly Vermentino, a great Mediterranean grape that nowhere else expresses such sunny aromas with a distinctly Ligurian character. The other standout white is Pigato, a very close relative of Vermentino, found exclusively in the Ligurian Riviera di Ponente.

Let’s talk Reds: the most interesting red variety, found in Ponente, is Rossese, which reaches its peak in Dolceacqua.

The allure of the Cinque Terre and Sciacchetrà

We conclude with one of Italy’s most beautiful regions: the Cinque Terre. Its wines are just as famous, starting with Sciacchetrà, a sweet passito wine produced in very limited quantities, along with dry whites made from indigenous varieties like Bosco, Albarola, and the much-discussed Vermentino. This year, we reviewed 11 wines in Gambero Rosso's Vini d'Italia guide—not many, but they are absolutely worth trying. Taste them to believe it!