First day of Vinitaly. Back to walking among company stands in the halls of Veronafiere. Glass in hand, faced with the delightful dilemma of moving freely between the various wine productions from Italy’s regions. Here are some of the best tastings we enjoyed as an interlude between events at the Gambero Rosso stand and those of Vinitaly.
What to drink at Vinitaly, according to Gambero Rosso
87/100
Verduno Pelaverga 2023 – G.B. Burlotto
Hall 10-L2
Among Piedmont’s grape varieties, this native one has a long-standing connection with the land. Its strength lies in its juicy, moreish drinkability, making it a dynamic, enjoyable and thirst-quenching wine. On tasting, a distinct white pepper spice stands out, accompanied by notes of pomegranate and orange. A lively, easy-drinking wine to be discovered sip after sip.
90/100
Roero Val Maggiore Ris. 2020 – Demarie
Hall 10-M2
We stay in Piedmont, but switch grape variety. This time, it’s a pure Nebbiolo that gives life to a delicate, satisfying and refreshing wine, underscored by a fresh and savoury vein. After fermenting in cement and macerating for 40 days, 70% of the wine is aged in large barrels for a year and a half, while the remaining 30% goes into 225L barriques. Aromas of macerated flowers, damson and plum, with a balsamic hint and spicy notes.
93/100
Fiano di Avellino Alessandra Ris. 2018 – Di Meo
Hall B 57-58
The label reads, just below the vintage, “aged 9 years”. A clue that precedes an intense nose ranging from citrus fruits to mallow, dried fruit, sweet spices and a subtle hydrocarbon note. The palate retains vibrant freshness, with a savoury streak that emerges mid-mouth and defines a long finish.
93/100
Marsala Vergine Secco Vintage 1980 Heritage – Intorcia
Hall 2 23-C
We recommend recreating the head-to-head we did between the same wine with two different maturations. Clear and elegant, the nose offers a bouquet of honey, chamomile, dry pastry, figs and mineral, iodised notes reminiscent of the shoreline. The harmony between nose and palate delivers exactly what was promised, with a slightly accentuated mineral component in the finish. A Marsala that marries time.
95/100
Marsala Vergine Secco Vintage 1980 Heritage – Intorcia
Hall 2 23-C
Here’s the version aged for 6 months underwater, in the depths of the sea. The difference in finesse on the palate is striking. The sip is velvety and full, showing greater vibrancy and dynamism compared to the previous wine. The finish, again, is extraordinarily long, closing on notes of candied citrus and salt.