Many small winegrowers passionate about Verdicchio di Matelica. Here is the 2025 Cooperative Winery of the Year

Francesco Merloni passed away a couple of months ago, on the 1st of October at the age of 99; along with his father Aristide and his brother Vittorio, they were instrumental in the industrialisation of Alta Vallesina with the Ariston and Indesit factories, which provided employment for much of the local population. But what does this have to do with a wine cooperative founded in 1971? The answer lies in the term "metal-mezzadro" coined by Roberto Potentini, Belisario’s director and oenologist: the metalworkers of that era were simply farmers who had left the sharecropping agricultural system.

Belisario: the expertise of the "metal-sharecroppers"

The Social Winery of Matelica and Cerreto d'Esi, named the 2025 Cooperative Winery of the Year by the Gambero Rosso’s Vini d'Italia guide, was founded with the purpose of preserving the viticultural heritage of the valley and preventing the removal of vines that were no longer essential for the income of those who had to work in factories every day. Over the years, Belisario has increasingly cemented its social and economic role in the lives of the many winegrowers scattered across this area surrounded by the Apennines. In addition to vinifying the grapes from the 250 hectares farmed by its 120 member-growers, the cooperative has created its own specialised team to care for vineyards not directly managed, acquired another 100 hectares in some of the most favourable crus, and progressively expanded its headquarters to provide help for anyone in need and modern equipment for contract winemaking, allowing small winegrowers to produce their own wine without the need for a private winery.

Cohesion and social protection: the strength of the Cooperative Winery

Another aspect, less highlighted but equally important, is the "protective" function that Belisario plays: in very productive years, it absorbs any "surplus"; in difficult years, it supports and supplements poor harvests. Belisario is available to everyone, always adhering to the strong mutualistic ideal promoted by president Antonio Centocanti, who has held office since 1995. This mutuality goes hand-in-hand with quality, as demonstrated by Cambrugiano, the symbol of the Verdicchio di Matelica denomination since its unforgettable debut vintage in 1988.

The elegance of the Verdicchio di Matelica Cambrugiano

From the eponymous cru, Cambrugiano 2021 reveals an elegant greenish hue tinged with golden reflections and aromas of citrus, linden flowers, and orange peel, enhanced by a delicate balsamic hint. Its refined gustatory dynamism creates broad, savoury curves on the palate and extends the finish with a rich memory of ripe fruit and almond.

Belisario
Matelica (MC)

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