Masseto, Churchill, and 30 years in one evening: how an Italian wine legend evolves

How does one become Masseto? We seek answers on a cold evening in London. "Tradition is spoken of when one is afraid to look to the future." These are the words of Lamberto Frescobaldi, the 30th generation of a family with 700 years of winemaking history. We are in the halls of the Raffles London Hotel at The OWO, a former war office building just a few metres from Admiral Nelson’s column in Trafalgar Square. Churchill was once at home here. At a single table, a dozen international journalists and Masters of Wine, from Jancis Robinson to Patrick Schmitt, are gathered. Everyone makes time for a Masseto vertical tasting. "We must not fear change. We ask ourselves every day: are we doing the right thing? Just like when we planted bush-trained Merlot vines—certainly not a local tradition," Frescobaldi continues.

The iconic yellow-labelled bottles are opened in an orderly row, taking us on a journey 30 years into the past, from the latest vintage on the market, 2021, back to 1995. The case of Masseto is unparalleled in the history of Italian wine—a red that has conquered global markets, often paving the way for others. Masseto has done more for the image of Italian wine than years of ICE-organised events. It has transported a different idea of Italian wine, with a positioning—its latest vintage costs over €1,000—that only the greatest wines of Bordeaux and Burgundy have known. That said, Masseto is not for everyone, even in terms of taste. Some find it excessively grand and concentrated, while others praise it unconditionally. Tasting reveals a strong identity and an incredibly recognisable stylistic continuity. The solidity of its structure mirrors the solidity of its image.

"Masseto does not seek to emulate anyone, yet you can place it on the world map. Because it takes you right there." Right where a brick factory once stood—Masseto Hill, just behind the Strada Bolgherese, climbing towards Castagneto Carducci. The land seems to rise just enough to offer a glimpse of the waves of the Tyrrhenian Sea. Blinding light, a constant sea breeze, and one great distinguishing feature: blue clay. Masses formed in the Pliocene era, the offspring of a deep marine substrate. It was 1981 when winemaker André Tchelistcheff and Lodovico Antinori planted less than a hectare to experiment with the first pure Merlot in the area. Today, the vineyard spans seven hectares. Many names have contributed to the success of this wine, born as a gamble: Rolland, Schuster, Staderini, Gal, Duroux. The ingredients of success are numerous. "Even relatives are not allowed to buy more than three bottles per year." Every detail contributes to the creation of a legend, from the carefully studied, direct, and understated communication style to the lack of ostentation. The focus is never on the winemaker or the individual, even though extraordinary talents like the young Gaia Cinnirella work in-house. Marco Bassinelli, production director, is precise in his harvest references, yet he too prefers to let the wine speak. He tells us about the meticulous precision work in response to climate change—on foliage, planting density, and toasting levels. "Because we don’t work for the coopers, we work for the wine!" Lamberto responds.

The consistency of identity over time is evident, even in less favourable vintages like 2009. Masseto strongly reflects the character of the vintage. That "grip and push" keeps recurring in the table’s comments. More than specific aromas—perhaps of morello cherry or coffee—there is a modulation of flavour: it enters smooth and opulent, compresses the palate with a powerful tannic grip, and then releases. The three phases are clearly distinct. They fill the mouth, giving the sensation of tasting a completely unique wine. Masseto.

Vertical tasting 2021 - 1995

Masseto 2021

97/100
Yes, we can talk about Masseto 2.0: less concentration and more detail. A luminous vintage with well-distributed heat peaks and long ripening periods. It presents itself pure and fragrant with notes of pepper, cherry, and orange zest. The palate is like a glove—creamy, velvety, with perfectly defined and focused aromas. The oak is tailor-made and unobtrusive, with a relaxed and balsamic finish. It boasts great integrity and impressive expansion.

Masseto 2016

95/100
Exuberant nose of liquorice, blackcurrant, and tobacco. The palate showcases the house’s signature style: smooth entry, imposing tannic compression, then a release of fruit and spices. The slightly bittersweet character stands out. The finish is precise, continuous, and remarkably driven, with hints of mint and cocoa, alongside still-vibrant acidity. It has the legs for at least another 20 years in the bottle.

Masseto 2015

92/100
Sweet invitation of sour cherries and vanilla, with intense and characterful fruit from a vintage that emphasises a soft and seductive aromatic profile. On the palate, it is dense, with a strong acceleration of tannins and toasted sensations, closing with coffee and cocoa notes. It has two gustatory souls that are not entirely resolved but offers depth and flavour.

Masseto 2013

94/100
A cool, light vintage reflected in a delightful balsamic profile: mint and black tea over Mediterranean scrub and olive tapenade. Jancis Robinson compares it to a classic old-school Bordeaux. The palate is firm and dense, with an even deeper colour than the three younger vintages. Austere finish of bitter cocoa with lingering balsamic returns. Great ageing potential.

Masseto 2009

90/100
Three steps back. Feels already quite advanced in both definition and aromatic integrity. Spirit-soaked cherry and chocolate, with an alcoholic kick that narrows the complexity of a wine rich in substance yet lacking full balance. It regains composure at the finish with spicy puffs and jammy sensations. The hot and extremely dry vintage is evident.

Masseto 2006

94/100
A vintage that reaches for the skies: generous in fruit, spices, acidity, and smoky notes. Opens with clove and black pepper; the palate impresses with grip and thrust —almost snapping on the tongue. Muscular and dense yet dynamic and layered, with a well-resolved and prolonged finish. The dark and intense side of Masseto.

Masseto 2005

93/100
Medium weight. A fresh and mild vintage, with harvest close to October, delivering a lighter Masseto with hints of juniper and forest floor. The palate leans towards cherry and a more pronounced sapidity, with notable aromatic precision and a more essential character than usual. Harmonious, clean, and precise finish.

Masseto 1999

92/100
An unexpected herbal dimension emerges. Foliage and underbrush sensations, alongside notes of spirit-soaked cherry and coffee. The palate remains rigid, with an imposing tannic texture and hints of cigar and roots, creating a continuous and well-defined gustatory profile. Dark finish of liquorice and black olives.

Masseto 1996

94/100
So much fruit! Medium structure, with the intensity of the vintage enhancing still-fragrant sensations of cherry and strawberry, enriched by notes of leather and green tea. The palate stretches out with class and grace—not as deep as other versions but still offering impressive freshness and flavour, remarkable given its vintage.

Masseto 1995

97/100
Masseto squared. Still brilliant and vibrant in colour, with inviting notes of cherry and coffee. The acceleration on the palate is textbook: tannin, fruit, and flavour combine in a full and seductive weave. Velvety and rich, alternating slightly bittersweet sensations with lapsang tea and black truffle tones. Expands across multiple levels, delivering a deliciously long finish.