Michelin surprise: in France, the guide rewards Italian chefs

The most sensational news had already leaked a few days ago: the loss of three stars by Georges Blanc, a true legend in France, who steps down from the highest podium after 44 uninterrupted years. A bolt from the blue for Blanc, who, in an immediate reaction, hinted at a slightly less elite future, but not one at risk: "There is no problem for our establishment," commented the chef, who, at the venerable age of 82, finds himself rolling up his sleeves, supported by a successful business model that could allow him to climb back up. But there is much more to discover in the Michelin Guide France: demotions, temporary closures (such as Maison Ruggieri by Martino Ruggieri, currently engaged in his project in Italy), and permanent closures have led to a total loss of 45 stars. Nevertheless, the French Michelin Guide remains a colossal reference, listing over 3,000 establishments, including 31 three-star restaurants, 81 two-starred, and 542 restaurants awarded their first macaron.

L'Altro Frenchie

The Michelin Guide France

While the 2025 guide sheds light on the most remote corners of the French countryside and reviews all provinces, Paris still holds a prominent position, both for grand restaurants, with their crisp white tablecloths and silverware, and for unconventional formats such as venues hidden within concept stores and multi-functional spaces (Habile and Halo Paris) or bistros, in the purest Parisian spirit. These addresses offer a relaxed gourmet experience, where young talents and rich experiences deliver generous, bold, bohemian yet highly cultured cuisine. This year, many of these vibrant and lively small venues have made it to the first level of the ranking, alongside the satellite establishments of renowned chefs: Frédéric Anton has opened La Ferme du Pré, Ducasse presents Ducasse Baccarat, and so on, from Jean-François Piège's pasta restaurant Clover Saint-Germain to Grégory Marchand's Italian-style venue (L'Altro Frenchie, in the charming street of fine dining and drinking). Whether it is bistros like Petrus by Sylvain Sendra or vegan restaurants like the Lebanese Qasti Green by Alan Geaam (featuring a must-try vegetarian shawarma with celery and mushrooms), the "petite table de grand chef" formula proves successful, expanding the list of must-visit places. Among these are establishments showcasing the arrival of foreign chefs, possibly influenced by the recent Olympics: from Ukrainian Maksym Zorin to Polish Piotr Korzen, not forgetting the Italian contingent.

Finestra - Photo: Francois-Xavier Serafino

Italians in France. The stars of Amâlia and Italo Bassi

The wave of Italian chefs in France continues: following last year's strong showing, this year also sees several Italian talents among the Michelin awardees. Starting with Eugenio Anfuso and Cecilia Spurio (pictured at the top, with their restaurant Amâlia in Paris, a city that always garners a wealth of awards, including new Michelin stars for Aldehyde, Origines Restaurant, Vaisseau, Agapé, Sushi Shunei). Then there is a veteran like Italo Bassi (historical chef of Enoteca Pinchiorri, who has been operating independently for some years). His restaurant, Finestra by Italo Bassi in Bonifacio, acts as a true bridge between Italy and France, unmistakable with its structure resembling the overturned hull of a ship. Domenico D'Antonio, from Elsa at Monte Carlo Beach - a magnificent 1930s palace - expertly handles the menu created by chef Marcel Ravin. Meanwhile, Massimiliano Sena, a native of Vico Equense, has brought a Michelin star to Courcelles with La Table de Courcelles in just a few months, housed in an elegant Grand Siècle-style building with a glass-roofed dining room offering a tranquil view of the French garden and canal. His cuisine is delicate, unpretentious, yet deeply focused on ingredients and precise technique. Another standout is Ginko, the restaurant of Valentina Giacobbe, an Italian who grew up in Asia, holding a political science degree before changing course and diving into the culinary world, gaining significant experience. Alongside her is party chef Julien Ingaud-Jaubert. Giacobbe delivers bold, creative cuisine inspired by both Italy and Asia, offering vegan options in a refined contemporary bistro in Lille.

Valentina Giacobbe with the pastry chef Julien Ingaud-Jaubert

The special Awards

There is more, as two special awards have crossed the Alps: the Young Chef Award went to Valentina Giacobbe of Ginko, a leading figure in Lille's emerging gastronomic scene. The "Cervione hazelnut, Nyangbo chocolate, hazelnut ice cream, and cocoa sorbet" dessert secured Claudio Pezzetti of Casadelmar (Porto-Vecchio) one of the 10 Passion Dessert awards.

The Service Award 2025 was awarded to Coralie Semery, director of the Michelin-starred Ébullition in Montpellier, and Valentin Cavalade, head of service at the two-starred Le Jules Verne in Paris. The Sommelier Award went to Maéva Rougeoreille of the two-starred and Green Star-awarded Jean Sulpice (Talloires-Montmin), and Jean Dumontet, sommelier of the Michelin-starred Frédéric Doucet (Charolles). Additionally, 10 new Green Stars have been awarded, bringing the total number of sustainability-recognised restaurants to 100.

Christopher Coutanceau

The new three-star restaurants

This year's edition also brought drum rolls: two new restaurants have reached the highest podium (now crowded with 31 three-star establishments), both also awarded a Green Star, proving that sustainability, environmental commitment, and haute cuisine are not incompatible but can indeed be formidable allies.

Christopher Coutanceau received three stars for his eponymous restaurant on Plage de la Concurrence, where he crafts a unique cuisine based on the finest seafood, of which he is not only a devoted connoisseur but also a staunch advocate, promoting ethical and environmentally respectful fishing and a zero-waste approach: "With the conviction that a chef is first and foremost a citizen, our approach goes beyond the restaurant and involves various associations working to preserve marine resources." His passion for the sea runs deep, passed down through generations: a fisherman (as well as a chef), just like his father and grandfather before him, he honours the product with elegance and immense respect.

For Hugo Roellinger, too, the connection with the sea predates his culinary journey: he began his career as a merchant navy officer before moving to the kitchen, where over the years he refined his technique and style through apprenticeships with some of France’s greatest chefs. He is based in one of the world's most enchanting locations, Mont Saint-Michel, where the bay can be seen just beyond the windows. Le Coquillage is a rare gem, where the chef celebrates seafood (ethically sourced) alongside aromatic herbs, home-grown vegetables, seaweed, and spices, charting a new Silk Road.

Yannick Alleno e Yasunari Okazaki

The new two-star restaurants

Nine restaurants have earned their second star: Maison Nouvelle by Philippe Etchebest and Observatoire du Gabriel by Bertrand Noeureuil, both in Bordeaux; Ekaitza by Guillaume Roget in Ciboure, in the French Basque Country; Baumanière 1850 in Courchevel; Rozó in Marcq-en-Barœul by Diego Delbecq and Camille Pailleau; L'Abysse Monte-Carlo by Yannick Alléno (which achieved two stars from its opening in Monaco with contemporary Japanese-inspired cuisine in collaboration with chef Yasunari Okazaki); Sushi Yoshinaga by Tomoyuki Yoshinaga; Blanc by Shinichi Sato, both in Paris; and L'Auberge de Saint-Rémy - Fanny Rey & Jonathan Wahid in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence.