Milan. Where to eat in NoLo: the best restaurants, wine bars, bakeries, and bistros. The ultimate guide

It all started at the Brooklyn Social Bar in the Big Apple. In 2012, Luisa Milani and Walter Molteni, graphic designers from La Tigre studio, along with Francesco Cavalli, founder and creative director of LeftLoft, a design and marketing studio based in Milan and New York, gathered to discuss the possibility of "branding" an unnamed, unremarkable area of Milan. This was the area north of Loreto, until recently identified with the main metro stops, Pasteur and Rovereto, bordered by parts of Viale Monza, Viale Brianza, the right side of Central Station, and the Martesana canal, one of the most frequented cycling paths for wellness enthusiasts. "Artists, professionals, and young residents: it was that initial ferment that inspired us," Cavalli later explained in an interview with Sole24Ore, "a zero-cost branding operation, carried out through word of mouth."

Today, NoLo is a fully-fledged neighborhood, complete with a precious local market (Marco Aurelio's, which continues along Via Termopili), a distinct identity, and a dynamic "piazza" life. Among the "Nolers," there are many artists and young people attracted by the fame and still relatively affordable rental prices. There are also those who have always lived here, frequenting the local bars, neighborhood establishments, and squares that constitute its heart, such as Piazza Morbegno and Piazza Spoleto, along with Parco Trotter.

There's also the historic Beltrade cinema, street art, social activities, churches, pedestrian areas, as well as gathering and aggregation places hosting events and cultural manifestations. The spirit is the same in places related to food and wine, often serving as meeting spots before being "simple" dining establishments. There's a variety, from Chinese to hubs, queer cocktail bars to risotto trattorias, fine dining to neighborhood bars. Here are the best addresses according to us.

Eating in Milan. The best restaurants in NoLo

Restaurants, trattorias, bistros, pizzerias

Da Abele

Trattoria. In a somewhat secluded alley, a solid and reliable address with many years of honorable activity. People come here especially to taste one of the many imaginative risottos (with land, sea, or vegetable ingredients) listed on the menu according to seasonality and executed with skill. The menu also offers other simple and tasty dishes, such as cod in stew, slow-cooked pork belly, red wine wild boar. Homemade tiramisu for a sweet ending. The wine list includes some good bottles to accompany everything. Simple and well-kept ambiance, family-friendly and courteous service.

Da Abele - via Temperanza, 5 - 02 2613855 - Facebook

Manna

Restaurant. After a few months of a profound restyling, Matteo Fronduti and his Manna are back in operation. The second life of one of the least conventional and most interesting restaurants in Milan starts with a completely renovated space, including a cocktail bar, while the kitchen, in constant evolution, remains the faithful expression of its corpulent - in every sense - owner. After all, the longest and tastiest tasting menu is called Porcherie (roasted beef fat, marinated mackerel, leche de tigre and peanuts, and kidney, sea urchin, gin and parsley, just to name a couple of examples).

Manna - p.le Governo Provvisorio, 6 - 02 26809153 - mannamilano.it

Mezzé

Bistro. Mezzé because the beauty here is that you can taste more things in reduced portions. The place is informal and pleasant, the service is laid-back, and the menu is varied, featuring selected ingredients. A dozen daily and seasonal proposals, many of which are vegetarian and vegan, and several Puglian specialties. Wines also come from the same region. Open for aperitifs as well.

Mezzé - via L. Varanini, 9 - 02 23175401 - Facebook

Mosso

Pizzeria. A large and spacious courtyard in Parco Trotter that is also a gathering place for various events. In the pizzeria restaurant, the menu consists of about ten variations, crafted by the Campanian Daniele Falcone, who opts for a 24-hour leavened, stone-ground flour dough. Excellent Margherita, as well as seasonal varieties. Homemade desserts, a small selection of wines and draft beers, friendly and knowledgeable staff.

Mosso - via A. Mosso, 3 - 342 6294082 - Instagram

Silvano

Bistro. Vintage lamps, wrought iron windows, tram doors, a long 14-meter counter for twelve diners. Silvano is the lunar character of a song by Enzo Jannacci, and the most recent project by Cesare Battisti (Ratanà and Remulass), dedicated to him. It's a modern tavern-wine bar with a handful of tables and a "scarpetta" kitchen with beans and onions, ragu, liver pate, veal in tuna sauce. For drinks, a frequent rotation of natural wines from ethical, sustainable, consistent producers.

Silvano - p.zza Morbegno, 2 - 02 72193827 - Instagram

Tipografia Alimentare

Bistro. Born as an outpost of a "different" way of doing food and wine culture, this venue managed by a passionate mother and daughter, experts in the field, has the merit of not succumbing to trends and sticking to the concept of a hub for good things at competitive prices in Milan. It's also a meeting place for the neighborhood and a space for small events with food and wine producers. You can have breakfast with Forno Nascosto's (see) leavened products, drink natural wines and craft beers, taste never banal and very seasonal dishes. Vegetarian options prevail, but lovers of cold cuts will also be happy when ordering a cutting board at aperitif time. Outdoor seating in good weather.

Tipografia Alimentare - via Dolomiti, 1 - 02 83537868 - tipografiaalimentare.it

South Americans, Asians, cocktail bars, wine bars

Buco del Monello

Wine Bar. A contemporary Venetian cicchetteria managed by a group of guys. The proposal is precisely that of the bacari of the lagoon: wine or Spritz and assorted tartines (or delights) at the counter. Prawns or sardines in saor, whipped cod and polenta, "cotevino" (aged in Recioto della Valpolicella), and then fried foods, platters, and desserts. Open from 4 pm onwards; you can consume inside or outdoors (where there is no service).

Buco del Monello - via Pietro Crespi, 11 - 349 3099241 - bucodelmonello.com

El Dogo

Argentinian. The small showcase and the entrance room "hide" a covered veranda where you can enjoy Argentine cuisine with some Italian touches. The strong point is the (excellent) empanadas with various fillings and street food specialties such as choripan, lomito, and pastel de papas. From here, you can choose one of the main dishes such as caponata, octopus and shellfish, homemade lime noodles, langostino salad, beef diaphragm. Empanadas are also sweet, along with a good Mojito semifreddo. Lively atmosphere, minimal cellar.

El Dogo - via Nicola D'Apulia, 4 - 02 36695250 - eldogo.it

Nolo.so

Cocktail Bar. Gianni Macario, the owner, has created a sunny and colorful "queer" place. It's now a highly frequented meeting point in the neighborhood. The cocktails are good, the aperitif is abundant, as in the best happy hour tradition, and the fun is guaranteed thanks to the welcoming atmosphere and the tailored music selection. At number 9, a little further on, those still hungry can knock on the doors of Gianni Nolo.so Pizza (344 0789133).

Nolo.so - via L. Varanini, 5 - 375 6370393 - nolosomilano.it

Le Nove Scodelle

Chinese. A winning recipe doesn't change. Perhaps the simplicity of the proposal is one of the secrets of the continuous success of this place. The name says it all: there are nine options (scodelle) on the menu, always the same, of excellent quality (try the kongbao chicken or sautéed cabbage) that can be paired with some appetizers or pasta (spaghetti, meat or vegetable ravioli, or rice). The cuisine is not generically "Chinese" but focused on Sichuan dishes, particularly spicy (next to each bowl is an indication of spiciness). Despite the inevitable speed, the service manages to be friendly and attentive to customer requests. Limited wine list and good craft beers on tap. Close tables and extremely affordable prices for a city like Milan.

Le Nove Scodelle - v.le Monza, 4 - 331 8001116 - lenovescodelle.com

Salumeria del Design

Wine Bar. Milan's first "bar-designery," born as an offshoot of the pre-existing cultural association. Here, events, markets, musical evenings, meetings, art exhibitions, projections are organized, and you can also drink and eat in a vintage environment where you feel at home. Artisanal wines and beers accompany a simple and genuine proposal, with cured meats taking the lead.

Salumeria del design - via Cecilio Stazio, 18 - 379 1169876 - salumeriadeldesign.com

Bakeries, gourmet breaks, sandwich shops

Fòla

Gourmet Break. A very pleasant little place that has quickly won the favor of a wide clientele. It opens at 8 am for a delicious breakfast that puts you in a good mood with buttery and well-layered croissants, pain au chocolat, Danish pastries, various types of coffee. In the afternoon, teas and herbal teas, slices of cakes or single portions, biscuits. There are also tasty savory gastronomy options for a quick lunch or takeout.

Fòla - via L. Varanini, 12 - 02 49713413 - folamilano.com

Forno Nascosto di Tipografia Alimentare

Bakery. To buy the bread from this bakery, you have to go to Tipografia Alimentare (see). Nathan, Livia, and Emanuele's creations enrich TiPA's beautiful counter, especially on weekends when the breakfast section overflows with sweet and savory leavened products from 9 am. Everything is of high quality, from the table loaf to 100% rye bread, from savory brioches to exquisite focaccias, to maritozzi and delicious bomboloni.

Forno Nascosto di Tipografia Alimentare - via Dolomiti, 1 - 02 83537868 - tipografiaalimentare.it

Hug Milano

Gourmet Break. In the courtyard of a former chocolate factory, here is a versatile space that hosts coworking, courses, events, workshops, and a cozy bistro where you can stop for brunch, lunch break, aperitif, afternoon tea, or dinner. The culinary proposal is dictated by seasonality and simplicity, with dishes that satisfy all tastes. Cocktails, wines, craft beers accompany the meal.

Hug Milano - via G. e C. Venini, 83 - 389 8485296 - hugmilano.com

Mi Casa Toasteria

Sandwich Shop. You really feel at home here, from breakfast to after-dinner, passing through lunch, a quick break, aperitif, and dinner. There are toast options in many variations, made as they should be, starting from the bread, prepared in-house and freshly baked, then offered with delicious sweet and savory fillings. There are also options for vegans and celiacs. To drink, juices, smoothies, tea and juices, soft drinks, beers, wines, and cocktails. Another location at Via Tolstoj 1 (corner of Piazza Berlinguer).

Mi Casa Toasteria - p.le Governo Provvisorio, 5 - 02 36642370 - micasatoasteria.it

Bars and pastry shops

Caffineria

Bar. In the heart of the neighborhood, there is a cafe run entirely by women where "Nolers" gather for breakfast, coffee, quick lunches, and group aperitifs. Without too many pretensions, it's a place where you feel good on every occasion, to chat or have a drink together, and where the offering is curated and caters to all tastes, both sweet and savory. Choose wines, artisan beers from the WAR brewery, and a nice selection of Italian bitters. Another location in Via Privata Brandina, Martesana area.

Caffineria - p.zza Morbegno, 2 - 02 38269553 - Instagram.com

Dosa

Pastry Shop. Dosa stands for "sweet" and "savory," and as the verb "dosare" suggests. Always at the helm in the laboratory and serving customers are Ylenia and Ludovica, a former lawyer and designer, creators of creations completely free of animal derivatives, suitable for everyone. The assortment is limited because the products are always fresh and vary according to the season: tarts, petits fours, leavened products, all made with genuine ingredients and evident dedication.

Dosa - via Venini, 69 - 375 6813579 - pasticceriadosa.it

Cover photo by Milanoguida