The area centered around via Paolo Sarpi, now entirely pedestrianized, is known as Milan's Chinatown, representing the stable Asian community in the Lombard capital for several generations. Located in the northwest, it is bordered by Porta Volta and the Monumental Cemetery to the North and corso Sempione and the Civic Arena of Parco Sempione to the South. Until the twenties of the last century, this area was still open countryside, and what was called "borg di scigulatt" (village of onion producers or Orchardists' Village) was a collection of farms producing fruit, vegetables, and silk processing plants since the late 19th century, the same activity the Chinese community from Zhejiang was engaged in during the twenties.
Over time, via Sarpi has become a true food district for the Chinese community - around 20,000 members today - and for those who, out of passion, travel, or cultural inclination, appreciate their cuisine in versions closer to the original, without compromises for Western tastes and offered in the various regional traditions generally ignored by the more popular Cantonese standard.
To truly enjoy the neighborhood and have a great time, there is no better moment than the Chinese New Year, falling between January 21 and February 19 (technically the first day of the second new moon after the winter solstice). In 2024, it will be the Year of the Dragon, the fifth of the twelve Chinese zodiac signs and a symbol of luck, strength, health, and harmony. Festivities at home begin on the eve with a family dinner and fireworks at midnight. However, the true inauguration of the otherwise known as the Spring Festival takes place on Sunday, February 11, at 2 PM with the Dragon Parade at the Arch of Peace - until a few years ago on via Sarpi, now no longer "capacious" enough for all participants. It is on that occasion that one of the most cherished events by the community starts, a two-week celebration - until its conclusion, the Lantern Festival, or Yuanxiao -, marked by gift exchanges, auspicious rituals (such as deep cleaning of the house to sweep away bad luck). The parade itself is a colorful celebration with dances, music, performances taking place on streets adorned with red lanterns and illuminated by auspicious fireworks. In the midst of it all, there are tastings of typical products and the traditional festival sweet, the mooncake, a small cake filled with red beans.
In the neighborhood, however, there is a lot to choose from when it comes to dining. And not just in terms of Asian cuisines: there is fine dining, with Ceresio7 in the former Enel building and Giancarlo Morelli of the Viu Milan hotel on the other side of via Bramante, in a space occupied for several years by the social center Bulk; there's a long list of pizzerias for every taste and budget; there is typical street food - often hardcore - and oriental markets where enthusiasts of Far East recipes can easily spend entire days, and much more. Here are the places not to be missed in the Year of the Dragon according to Gambero Rosso.
Chinese and Japanese
Bokok
Restaurant. A Hong Kong-style tea room with a shelf of poetry books to browse while waiting. The atmosphere is enchanting, the staff is friendly, and the menu is a collection of various dim sum with different fillings. There are also ramen and bao as well as more structured dishes like rice cannelloni or Peking duck. The name? In Cantonese, it means "treasure room."
Bokok - via Paolo Sarpi, 25 - 02 49427825 - Facebook
Ippo Sushi Boutique
Japanese. The main branch is in via Panfilo Castaldi 21 (there is also a third one in via Raffaello Sanzio 29), managed by Fabio and Kay, deeply passionate about Japanese culture. They offer a refined fusion approach, with scenic boxes of creative combinations of sushi, nigiri, maki, sashimi, and uramaki. Also, vegetarian options.
Ippo Sushi Boutique - via Paolo Sarpi, 1 - 351 7770157 - ipposushi.it
Jin Yong
Chinese. Simple but substantial - noteworthy are the meatballs, especially the pork ones, and all the soups. It's a "battle" place but at the same time capable of satisfying enthusiasts of the genre. True Cantonese tradition is respected with few concessions to Western taste, and the staff is very courteous. Minimal table setting.
Jin Yong - via Paolo Sarpi 2 - 02 341476 - Instagram
Hua Cheng
Chinese. A lantern and pop calendar-themed trattoria with only one showcase, always crowded - no reservations, but you might get a seat sooner or later, perhaps shared - offering simple dishes from the Zhejiang tradition with rudimentary plating, all substance and little form. But the sweet and sour pork, fresh pasta, and sautéed vegetables are really good. Also,you can't miss the pumpkin pie, a spectacular, almost cake-like dessert.
Hua Cheng - via Giordano Bruno, 13 - 02 3451613 - Facebook
Little Lamb
Chinese. The focal point here is the hot pot, a steaming broth pot placed directly on the table where you can cook meat, fish, vegetables, dumplings, noodles, later dipped in various available sauces. Alternatively, there are barbecued cuts of meat.
Little Lamb - via Paolo Sarpi, 8 - 327 2981339 - Instagram
Ramen a mano
Chinese. It's called ramen, and you might think of Japan, but in this budget-friendly place with minimal decor, they offer Chinese-origin lamian. Right at the entrance is the open kitchen where they hand-pull the pasta, made with organic Italian flour. The customer chooses thickness and shape, and the lamian are then served in beef or vegetable broth with spicy sauce. Portions are generous, but you can also try a small appetizer like fresh steamed lotus or boiled eggs with green tea, star anise, and cinnamon. Alternatively, there are tasty fried chicken wings or braised pork meatballs. The service is quick but friendly. A minimal beverage menu.
Ramen a mano - via P. Lomazzo, 20 - 02 36536559 - ramenamano.it
Rujia Ristorante
Chinese. Recently opened, it's a modern, informal yet well-kept place where dishes are chosen at the table on tablets, and the staff is friendly and helpful. From the open kitchen come dishes like slices of fish and sauerkraut in (very) spicy broth, Peking duck with vegetables in spicy broth, broth-filled bao, and then all the classics listed in the extensive menu: various types of dumplings, sweet and sour shrimp, rice or soy noodles, and so on. They also offer organic wines at a fair price.
Rujia Ristorante - via Antonio Rosmini, 3 - 351 7187777 - Instagram
SAKA KURA
Japanese. The sign means "sake house": it's an izakaya - a typical Japanese tavern - where you can find ramen as per tradition and a selection of typical dishes to enjoy with friends. Wakame seaweed salad to start, then yakitori (skewers), gyoza, okonomiyaki, katsu sando, and ramen in various combinations. Among the more "precious" specialties (29 euros) is the Wagyu Don (steamed rice, Wagyu slices, egg, sesame, ginger, marinated cucumber).
SAKA KURA - via Paolo Sarpi, 15 - 331 4191215 - sakakura.it
Tang Gourmet
Chinese. The simple environment, quick and no-frills service, and all-day opening make it a perfect place for gatherings with friends or for hearty and unpretentious meals (also in the final bill) but of considerable substance, in every sense. The cuisine is typical Shanghainese, with a wide range of dishes: for guidance, if it's your first time, try the braised house dumplings, crispy at the base and filled with broth and pork meat, the bao filled with fresh coriander, braised pork meat, rousong (dried pork meat), and pickled vegetables, and noodles in many variations, all homemade.
Tang Gourmet - via Paolo Sarpi, 17 - 02 315559
XIAO HUTONG
Chinese. The sign means "the little alley." The dimensions of the place are indeed small, but the atmosphere is very welcoming and familiar. The dishes are well-made (ramen, dumplings, fried foods, skewers, the Chinese "piada"), and there's even something less traditional "contaminated" with Italian products. Outdoor seating. Very light bill.
XIAO HUTONG - via Paolo Sarpi, 50 - 377 8364486 - Instagram
Restaurants and Pizzerias
Biga Milano
Pizzeria. The pizza style is Neapolitan, with a leavening and maturation time of about 36 hours. The flours are a mix of whole and semi-whole for a round pizza with a soft and high crust. Digestibility is another feature, and the menu is very rich: classic, contemporary, pan-fried, and "ruote di carro" pizzas. For toppings, selected and in some cases truly special products, such as pastrami or beef salmon ham. For vegans, a new option every month. Crispy and dry fried items, including sweet pizza for dessert.
Biga Milano - Pizzeria Contemporanea - via A. Volta, 20 - 02 52801936 - Instagram
Capuano's
Pizzeria. Luigi Capuano likes to define himself as a craftsman-pizzaiolo, and in the restaurant, he recreates the atmosphere of a neighborhood pizzeria of yesteryears. On the walls, there is an evident fixation with the number 7 (perhaps because he was born on November 7th...). There are 28 pizzas in the menu, 7 (again!) per section: classic, innovative, seasonal, Italian. Then 7 starters, as many traditional dishes, and large salads, 7 stuffed and oven-baked pizzas, and finally 7 desserts. Not to mention, 7 beers and 7 wines for pairing. Another location at via Orseolo 1.
Capuano's - via F. Londonio, 22 - 02 84146228 - capuanos.it
Ceresio 7
Restaurant. From the iconic and "Hockneyesque" terrace with a pool, Ceresio - next to the Monumental Cemetery, in the historic Enel building purchased by Dsquared2 in 2009 to become its headquarters - has seen skyscrapers sprout that now make the patrons of this always avant-garde place seem almost small, rich in contemporary art and stylish details. The chef, Elio Sironi, is a long-time professional, with his rigorous and clear cuisine, made of fresh ingredients and contemporary suggestions, expressed at its best in the Signature menu. Rich wine list, and good cocktails at the bar.
Ceresio 7 - via Ceresio, 7 - 02 31039221 - ceresio7.com
Da Giuliano
Pizzeria. A historic place, for 55 years now a popular address for lovers of pizza al trancio, soft and generously topped. The house specialty is the Margherita with artisanal mozzarella from Monte Penice, served, like the others, in a generous size or half portion. Available for take-out, home delivery, or to eat on the spot.
Da Giuliano - via P. Sarpi, 60 - 02 341630 - pizzeriadagiulianomilano.it
Lievità Sempione
Pizzeria. In Neapolitan style, with a slightly pronounced crust, the round pizza signed by Giorgio Caruso is light and digestible, characterized by a "light" dough that enhances carefully selected ingredients. About twenty choices on the menu, plus fried items (montanara and calzone above all), some cold dishes, and artisanal desserts. Essential cellar, attentive service. Four other locations (Vetra, Moscova, Sottocorno, Ravizza). Worth noting the use of energy from renewable sources and wood with FSC certification.
Lievità Sempione - via Piero della Francesca, 31 - 02 37929480 - pizzeria-lievita.com
Da Mammà
Pizzeria. Puffy crust, thin base, selected raw materials, these are the winning cards of this brand with a comfortable outdoor space. Among standard and special burgers, the choice is overwhelming, and satisfaction is guaranteed. Salads, tasty rolls (wheat tortillas with tasty fillings), fried items are also available. The possibility to customize your burger or take advantage of the convenient menus.
Da Mammà - via L. Cagnola, 8 - 02 38293270 - Facebook
Giancarlo Morelli dell'hotel Viu Milan
Restaurant. An amiable person and a great professional, Giancarlo Morelli is part of the "old guard" but has the merit of always looking forward and not dwelling on the classics: he offers only three on the menu after three decades as chef-owner. Thus, along with the new vegetarian path (with a great minestrone, always seasonal), the five-course tasting expresses the desire to have fun and entertain. The room is very beautiful (this is truly ancien régime, fortunately, with every detail in its place), and there is a chef's "table" in the kitchen. A broad cellar and always present service. A few meters away, Bulk Bistrot for an opening aperitif and a cocktail on the way out.
Giancarlo Morelli dell'hotel Viu Milan - via A. Fioravanti, 4 - 02 80010918 - morellimilano.it
Pizzium
Pizzeria. One of the most beloved round pizzas in Milan, which explains the proliferation of locations. Also, thanks to a working format focusing on substance, i.e., valid doughs and toppings among the classic Neapolitans and those reproducing regional Italian recipes. But the menu is much more extensive, dynamic service, and a sunny atmosphere.
Pizzium - via Procaccini, 30 - 02 33607623 - pizzium.com
Breweries, Sandwich Shops, Street Food, Gourmet Breaks
La Buttiga Beer Room
Brewery. A nice selection on tap, with several house-brewed beers - the Piacenza brewery was born in 2011 - and a good rotation, as well as a suitable and not patched-up food offer. It has now become a reference point in the area, offering various snacks, from mixed cutting boards to nachos. In addition, consultancy activities and evenings discovering the brewing world. Two more locations at via Melchiorre Gioia 194 and viale Isonzo 10.
La Buttiga Beer Room - via Paolo Sarpi, 64 - 351 9625706 - labuttiga.it
Fusho
Street Food. The specialty here is the sushi burrito, an original Jap-Tex Mex fusion, to be composed as desired or chosen from the house combinations. Fusho is an original gastronomy also present in via Plinio 5 (where AperiFusho is also done), also loved for its colorful poke bowls.
Fusho - via Paolo Sarpi, 50 - 02 36598024 - Instagram
Mimì Gourmet
Street Food. Marinated 8-day grouper tataki or risotto with scallops and zucchini flowers: all fish at Mimì, where until recently the welcome was only outdoors in Piazzale Baiamonti. The culinary proposal, however, is always the same, not trivial, and at more than reasonable prices: raw or cooked, it is the undisputed protagonist. It's curious that many dishes are accompanied by fried dumplings as a side. There are also oysters and sea urchins: don't miss the plateau. And even a bit of meat proposed as tartare and some charcuterie boards.
Mimì Gourmet - v.le Pasubio, 16 - 02 49475009 - Instagram
Mu Finest Italian Burger
Sandwich Shop. Artisanal bread, fresh vegetables, selected meats: these are the winning cards of this brand with a comfortable outdoor space. Between standard and special burgers, there is only the embarrassment of choice, and satisfaction is guaranteed. There are also salads, tasty rolls (wheat tortillas with tasty fillings), fried items. The possibility to customize your burger or take advantage of the convenient menus.
Mu Finest Italian Burger - via P. Sarpi, 63 - 02 36580240 - Instagram
La Ravioleria Sarpi
Street Food. Agie Zhou, considered the "king of dumplings," has also become the owner of the adjacent butcher shop owned by Walter Sirtori (see), whose meats he has always used. The jiaozi have different fillings, beef, pork, or just vegetables. They can be eaten on-site or taken away (there is also a shop at the Mercato Centrale). The same goes for the two available versions of crepes, meat or vegetarian.
La Ravioleria Sarpi - via P. Sarpi, 27 - 331 8870596 - laravioleriasarpi.com
S'LAB
Gourmet Break. Liked a lot by a cross-sectional audience, but especially by avid social media users. The place is small, but the good things are many, between sweet and savory: roll cake and moon cake, crepes in various variations, egg tarts, mochi in a thousand forms, brioche pockets filled with ham and cheese, smoked meat sandwiches, and "melon pan" filled with strawberries and cream. Special mention for teas, in many types and different flavors.
S'LAB - via P. Sarpi, 1 - 02 36535586 - Instagram
Sirtori
Gourmet Break. If Ravioleria Sarpi (see) has become a reference point also for the choice of high-quality Italian raw materials, including Piedmontese meats, the credit also goes to Sirtori, a business born as a butcher shop in the '50s. A collaboration and friendship have developed between Agie and owner Walter over time, leading Agie to buy the store at the end of 2022. The choice of high-quality meats is the same, but now you can also eat at the large communal table at the back of the venue with the original marbles.
Sirtori - via P. Sarpi, 27 - 02 342482
Stick ‘n beer
Street Food. Yellow lanterns, green walls, and chairs, but above all a wall organized as a "dispenser" where you can choose your combination of skewers (typical Chinese) by specifying the desired level of spiciness. Everything "skewerable" is available: meat, vegetables, fried, in every shape and color. Spartan environment, ideal for a quick stop.
Stick ‘n beer - via Paolo Sarpi, 30 - 02 38249893
Bars and Bakeries
Martesana
Bakery. The via Cagliero location is the historical headquarters of the brand, which, thanks to the work of Vincenzo Santoro, has gained fame and expanded with five city outlets, including one in via Sarpi. The offer ranges smoothly from impeccable traditional pastries to no less careful innovative proposals. Spectacular breakfast leavened and large holiday cakes, savory pastries, and cakes. But there are hundreds of creations made in the in-house laboratory, including excellent pralines, bars, and splendid Easter eggs decorated.
Martesana - via Sarpi, 62 - 02 66986634 - martesanamilano.com
oTTo
Bar. "Particular, natural, nice, fast, and colorful things": this is the business card of this multifunctional space - also a shop and events - which has become a must in the neighborhood at any time of the day, with a boom in the aperitif and brunch area. Food is ordered with the "order card," filled out at the table and then handed to the staff, and drinks are ordered at the counter. A tasty and international menu with a mention for the "quadrotti" (open toasts).
oTTo - via P. Sarpi, 10 - otto.place
SnowBerg Italy
Bakery. No croissants and sfogliatelle in this very colorful and highly Instagrammable place opened in late spring 2023. The specialty of the house is the Korean bingsu, a bowl with condensed milk, ice cream, fresh fruit, red beans, and ice shavings, all enriched with cones or waffles. Various flavors, from melon to mango & strawberry, depending on the season. There's also fun with crispy crepes and egg waffles.
SnowBerg Italy - via Giovanni Battista Niccolini, 20 - 333 5666860 - Instagram
Wine Shops, Markets, Delicatessens
Cantine Isola
Wine Shop. Almost a century of history - 1896 - for an address that is an institution in the city, with its over two thousand references, vertical tastings of precious bottles, vintages not found elsewhere, and also a pouring - on special evenings - of important and expensive wines. A lot of Europe, especially with France and Italy at the top. Not a spacious place but with a small, always well-attended outdoor area.
Cantine Isola - via P. Sarpi, 30 - 02 3315249 - cantineisola.com
La Gastronomia di via Prina
Delicatessen. A precious lifesaver for those with little time and the desire to get in the kitchen. From the small window, the assortment of ready-to-take and serve dishes is already evident: risottos, tagliatelle, oven-baked shank, roast, all genuine and well-made. Also, cold cuts and cheeses counter.
La Gastronomia di via Prina - via G. Prina, 2/A - 02 33603022
Kathay
Market. Dishes and products from the Chinese tradition, born in 1989 in via IV Novembre to meet the needs of the community in Milan. In 2016, the larger store arrived, also strong of the success of Asian cuisine in the city. Today it is a reference point for the purchase of condiments, teas, drinks, all made in China. Many organic references.
Kathay - via Canonica, 54 - 02 33105368 - kathay.it
Mood Market
Market. The true temple for those who love Chinese, Japanese, and Asian cuisine in general. With continuous arrivals of products such as spice collections, miso pastes, ready-to-heat ramen, and Korean sauces. Not lacking are the trendy carbonated drinks. A well-stocked store also with online shipments throughout Italy. At Mood Market, you also come to buy items, beauty products, and branded foods and drinks with famous brands like Pokemon.
Mood Market - via P. Sarpi, 41 - 331 4126775 - mooood.it
The Oriental Mall
Market. A shopping center for Asian goods with stores of all kinds, including clothing. Inside, there are Jun Tai's hot table bar (where there is a traditional menu, and dumplings and rolls are handmade) and the Chinese pastry shop Miss cake that offers typical specialties such as egg tart (Dan Ta), buns (or bao, classic steamed buns), ginger milk curd (Jiangzhuang Nai), and everything you need for a high-sugar break between one purchase and another.
The Oriental Mall - via A. Rosmini, 14 - 333 5468577 - theorientalmallmilano.it
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