by Simone Rosti
There is a place in the centre of Bologna that has resurrected a legendary, vintage, out-of-fashion dish: ruote alla vodka (ruote = wheels is a kind of pasta). The credit goes to the histrionic Dario Picchiotti and Francesco Tonelli, who a few years ago revived the old Merlò restaurant, transforming it into Casa Merlò: a resounding success, thanks to a straightforward yet unpretentious cuisine, nostalgic and irreverent at the same time, where every dish is perfect, but above all, it guarantees a high level of fun. The vodka wheels are precisely the symbol of the spirit of this place.
The new Locanda Merlò where vodka wheels reign supreme
A few weeks ago, with partner Nicola Barilli at the helm, they doubled up with Locanda Casa Merlò, a new venue (with rooms) on the outskirts of Bologna (to be precise, in Calderara di Reno), where the plain offers nothing on the horizon, with large outdoor spaces, an evocative portico, an imposing fireplace inside, a pond, and an old kiln. Here, tradition reigns supreme, with vodka wheels always standing out among the first courses: a timeless delight thanks to a pasta of luscious texture that bursts in the mouth with the sauce overflowing from the wheel's circles!
What to eat and drink at the new Locanda Merlò
The rest of the menu focuses on thin crescentine and tigelle with quality cold cuts, other typical first courses like tagliatelle al ragù and tortellini, and especially grilled meats with a leg of chicken that's outrageously good, sliced beef and pork ribs. To finish, spoon desserts. The wine list includes some true heavyweights because, after all, a great wine can always be paired with traditional cuisine if it's done well, as it is here. The cuisine of Casa Merlò and now also of Locanda Casa Merlò conveys something not easily found: a passion and genuine love centred on a simple concept, that of conviviality, because you come to the “terrible” Picchiotti, Tonelli, and Barilli boys also to enjoy company and have a good laugh.
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