We have often discussed the diversity of soils, altitudes, and microclimates found in Sardinia, focusing on the best labels of the main denominations, from Vermentino to Cannonau. Here, however, we turn our attention to a perhaps lesser-known yet certainly no less interesting native grape variety. We are talking about Cagnulari, cultivated using the ancient bush-training method on the limestone-clay hills northwest of Sassari, not far from Alghero, particularly in the areas of Usini, Uri, Ittiri, Ossi, and Tissi.
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It is a red grape variety that has been present in Sardinia for centuries, with uncertain origins. It bears a certain resemblance to Bovale, which is why it is believed to have been introduced to Sardinia during the Aragonese rule in the 17th century. It also seems to share genetic similarities with Mourvèdre, a grape cultivated in southern France and known in Spain as Monastrell.
Cagnulari: between Alghero DOC and Isola dei Nuraghi IGT
Cagnulari is a wine deeply tied to its territory, which in the past was often used to blend with less intense and full-bodied red wines or sold in bulk for local consumption. The grape variety was saved from extinction only thanks to the perseverance of a few visionary producers. Its single-varietal vinification is a relatively recent development, and today, Cagnulari is recognised with a Denomination of Controlled Origin within the Alghero DOC. However, some of the most important producers prefer to use the Isola dei Nuraghi IGT designation to highlight its uniqueness and distinctiveness compared to the better-known wines of Alghero.
Cagnulari: Grape Variety and Wine Characteristics
The grape has a thick, black-violet skin, often covered with bloom. It is known for its relatively high yield, which must be controlled to obtain quality grapes and wines with the right aromatic concentration. The wine exhibits a bright ruby red colour, intense aromas of wild berries, spicy notes, and balsamic undertones. On the palate, it is warm, well-structured, with soft tannins and a pleasant freshness that makes it very harmonious. The finish is savoury and persistent.
For more fragrant and ready-to-drink versions, Cagnulari is aged in stainless steel, but maturation in wood has been yielding excellent results for wines destined for ageing.
It is a grape variety with a strong personality, deeply linked to its small production area. The best expressions hint at an as-yet-unrealised potential, especially in the case of long ageing, which grants Cagnulari great complexity. At the table, it pairs very well with pasta dishes featuring meat sauces, red meats, roasts, lamb, and game.
The new entry among the Tre Bicchieri
With its Cagnulari 2022, the Chessa winery has achieved the Tre Bicchieri award for the first time.
The Best Cagnulari Wines We Tasted
Below is a list of the Cagnulari wines we appreciated the most during the tastings for the Gambero Rosso 2025 Italian Wine Guide: the first has won Tre Bicchieri, while the others have received Due Bicchieri Rossi (having reached our finals) or Due Bicchieri.
The Cagnulari '22 by Chessa, marking the winery’s first-ever top podium placement, is the most elegant, multifaceted, and complex version ever presented. It boasts aromas of plum, with hints of vanilla and spices, while on the palate, it is both enveloping and refined, with remarkable depth. The tannins are soft and well-integrated into the wine’s structure, while the sip is defined by a beautiful acidic freshness.
Giovanna Chessa has placed her bet on Vermentino and Cagnulari to showcase the potential of Usini’s terroir. A passionate producer, she skilfully preserves the characteristics of vines rooted in limestone and clay soils, spread across hills caressed by breezes. The wines she produces are refined, fresh, and elegant, capable of evolving well over time. In addition to whites and reds, her range is completed by a Moscato Passito.
Cagnulari 2022 - Giovanni Maria Cherchi
The Cagnulari '22 by Giovanni Maria Cherchi is excellent, featuring notes of plum and black pepper. The ambitious project of the winery’s founder has always been to tell the story of Usini’s terroir, with its limestone-clay soils, and this mission continues to guide production today. The estate’s 30 hectares of vineyards benefit from maritime influences and a 200-metre elevation, which contribute to the freshness and aromas of its various labels. Cagnulari, Vermentino, and Cannonau are the primary varieties expressed through three lines (Classici, Billia, and Speciali), alongside a Passito and a Metodo Classico. Salvatore Cherchi presents a high-profile range of wines.
Sass'Antico Cagnulari 2021 - Tenuta L'Ariosa
The Sass'Antico is a great Mediterranean red, offering aromas of black fruits and spices. On the palate, the tannins are well-balanced with structure and body. Deep and clean, it has a finish that revisits its fruity sensations.
Alghero Cagnulari Recònta Ris. 2020 - Santa Maria la Palma
The Cagnulari '20, named Recònta, is also excellent, with aromas of black fruit and spices. On the palate, it is savoury and tannic. The vineyards of the Santa Maria la Palma cooperative winery extend from the Gulf of Alghero to the Bay of Porto Conte. This diverse terroir encapsulates the 700 hectares of vineyards cultivated by its members. Founded in 1956, the winery has continuously renewed and improved itself over time. Today, it boasts a high-quality production spanning a variety of styles and labels. From everyday wines to premium selections of Vermentino, Cannonau, and Cagnulari, as well as some sparkling wines, the winery offers a comprehensive range.
Antonella Collection Cagnulari 2021 - Cantina Pedres
Among the red wines we most appreciated from Cantina Pedres is the Cagnulari '21. The winery’s 80 hectares are located in the Gallura region at approximately 300 metres above sea level. The emblem of this broad and varied range is Vermentino, the area's flagship grape. This is complemented by Moscato, Cannonau, Sangiovese, Merlot, and Syrah, interpreted through red and sparkling wines, both dry and sweet. All the vineyards thrive on land well-suited to viticulture, with a climate moderated by sea breezes that contribute to producing wines of great quality.
Carpante is a noteworthy winery in the northwest of the island, specialising in Cagnulari and Vermentino, which find a distinctive identity in this area. Meanwhile, from the Sulcis vineyards, we tasted an excellent Carignano, adding to an already consistently impressive range.
Kressia Cagnulari 2023 - Poderi Parpinello
A high-profile selection was also presented by Parpinello in recent tastings. Here, we highlight the excellent Cagnulari Kressia '23.
Sussinku Cagnulari 2022 - Nuraghe Crabioni
Lastly, the Sussinku, a product of traditional Cagnulari, is also outstanding. Nuraghe Crabioni is an excellent winery producing wines from native grape varieties that beautifully represent the northwest of the island.
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